The duc tape they sell today is crap. So, I was wondering, after the second failure downstairs on the dryer, ... has anyone use machine screws to connect light AL exhaust ducting? The only down side could see would be perhaps the lint gathering on the screw inside the duct and causing a problem.
(Yes, I know the old rubberized stuff is still available on line. I used to repair my down jackets with it :-)
They do make a clamp for your project, I have one an it has been trouble free for two years.
Searcher
Don't use screws, the points collect lint. It is a fire hazard.
Don't use duct tape, use the special aluminum skinned tape made for ducts. Duct take is NOT made for that use. The right take will cost more and will have a peel off paper over the adhesive.
You are not supposed to use screws for the reason you mentioned. Duct tape isn't used for ducts - it doesn't last. Buy a roll of the aluminum foil tape - it's stronger, has better adhesive and it lasts.
Try using the PROPER tape... DUC tape is *NOT* duct tape...
Use aluminum DUCT tape.
They will collect crap and should be avoided if possible.
That IS duct tape.
You are getting duct and "duc" tape mixed up. The grey cloth stuff is "duc" tape and not used on ducts.
Use the round clamps they sell. Note that the Whirlpool dryers and Kenmores made by whirpool have a very short snout to attach the clamp to but it is possible to do it securely if you locate the locking screw mechanism to the bottom of the duct. Why whirlpool uses such a short pipe is beyond me. Maytag gives you several inches to attach the duct to.
Also don't buy those plastic friction fit dryer duct connectors. They fail in a few months.
The way that most dryers hook up is a pain in the @$$... Trying to line up a pipe behind the dryer with the one in the was is difficult.
I don't see why someone can't invent another method.
I've seen some dryers where you can move the output to the side instead of the rear. Still not the best method, but easier to hook up.
My suggestion is get the duct work situated where all the connections are happy.
Tape the joints with aluminum tape, use the type that comes with peel off backing, it's the best.
If the ducting setup is uncooperative you can use some screws on temporary basis & then remove them & tape over holes when done.
I've have some aluminum tape installations that are 20+ years old & still sound.
btw the AL tape isn't really all that much more expensive than duct tape.
cheers Bob
go to a heating and air conditioning supply house and buy your tape from there.... it will be of better quality than walmart or home cheapo tape.....
or you could use cheap tape but first spray the joint you want connected with some spray adhesive....
or use a big metal hose clamp......
I'd be interested in seeing a source for that information.
I don't remember duct tape ever being particularly good.
Definitely not when used on heating ducts. Others are right, use the aluminum type. Once on it is there for the ages.
Harry K
The foil tape roll itself is about the same price, but it's only about
1/6 as long. Six times the price. R
Well yes, but it is a specific duct tape and now what most people mean or think of when the term duct tape is used.
No, a source for the nomenclature "duc" tape as being different from "duct" tape.
There is nothing wrong with real duct tape. That "economy" stuff at wally etc is a different story.
second
Yes, thats the reason to use tape.
You could get it at at a real plumbing/heating supply store.
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