Where is the best place to set a tack strip when carpet runs through a
doorway? We have carpeted a bedroom that meets ceramic tile in an adjoining
bathroom. The rooms are separated by a sliding door and there will be a
transition piece of wood (oak) screwed down where the carpet and tile
meet. Is it correct to assume that the tack strip should be covered by the
transition piece or is it acceptable for the strip to be in a place where it
can be stepped on?
Assuming you have a carpet with a separate underlay, normally you would
tack the strip leaving a gap of about 5mm from the transition piece.
the underlay would be cut to the strip and the carpet would be
stretched over the strip and cut so that it tucks down into the 5mm
gap. If you have a combined underlay, the carpet would meet the
Thank you. That's very helpful. I should have said that the carpet has a
separate underlay, a heavy duty felt-like pad.
Another question: There is already a tack strip just outside the doorway
on the bedroom side. The carpet installer left an additional piece of
strip for my use depending on where I lay the transition piece (really
depends on how large a transition I decide to make). If I decide on a
transition that is 1.5" to 2" wide, following your advice, I would end up
with two parallel tack strips, one just outside of the door and one in the
middle of the doorway. Would this create a problem?
I'm not a carpet layer but I know how mine were
laid and I have continued that method when I
removed carpet and added hard floors.
You can have tile-wood strip-carpet with each
butting up to the next but it is far better to
just have tile-carpet. You don't need a
transition. But if you use a transition, you need
the type that is a T (goes over the tile a bit and
goes over the carpet a bit but the center is
directly on the subfloor).
You can put the tack strip about 3/16" from the
tile, stretch the carpet onto the tack strip and
then carefully cut the carpet even with the tile.
Better, is to simply roll the carpet under about
1" (no pad in this 1" which should make the carpet
about the same height as the tile). This 1" roll
over should butt against the tile and stapled to
the subfloor, no tack strip. You need to use at
least 1" long (and 1-1/2" would be better) crown
staples (the kind used in pneumatic guns) and
staple about 1/4-3/8" behind the fold so that the
staple goes through the top and the folded over
piece. With any decent carpet you will never see
I like the sound of your method. Unfortunately, the carpet has already
been cut flush with the tile leaving nothing to roll under, so what's to
keep the edge from fraying over time?
Why do you recommend the T type of transition if I go that way?
Not sure what you mean. The T type transition
means the transition overlaps the tile and
overlaps the rug. Thus it protects the edges of
the tile and the edges of the rug. But that means
a bump in the floor that you either step on or
step over. The alternative for you is to just
use a transition that butts up to the tile (guess
you could use a good caulk to make it seamless,
then roll the carpet under to butt against the
transition. Kind of depends on where the tile
stops in the doorway and how your door is guided.
I have the same carpet throughout the house, certainly not the most
expensive carpet, but the only place I have a problem is when I go
upstairs. If I'm barefoot, and I get my foot too close to the riser,
I step on the tacks from the tack strip. Never punctured anything,
but it hurts a little.
I took a hammer and pounded them down, but I may not have wacked them
all hard enough. It's still a problem, but I've learned not to put my
toes where they don't belong.
FRankly, I think the carpet must be pretty cheap. I was going to say
I've never had this problem on any other stairs, but I realize the
last other stairs I went barefoot on was my home when I was 10. And
my father had more money than I do. (I didn't put in the carpet. The
prior owner did.)
But there are other tack strips in the house, I'm would think. Or are
there: The entrance to the 3 upstairs bedrooms, the two upstairs
bathrooms, where the dining room meets the kitchen, and where it meets
the hall. But, how could there be trim strips since I can't feel
anything different at those places, even barefoot.
One can't wear down the carpet right next to a stair riser. Most
peoplle don't stick their feet in that far, I think, and the weight is
on the other foot before it goes from the ball to the toes.
I was worried about where my desk is. I tried for 23 years to move
the desk chair as little as possible, because I didn't want to wear
out one room and debate how much of the house to recarpet.
This year it was in a tiny place starting to show its age. I decided
to look for one of the masonite or plastic things that go under desk
chairs. After a few weeks I rmemebered to look when I was in Staples.
They had several models, so I was going to think about it. The very
next day I found a plastic one in good condition in the dumpster on
the next property near my house.
It seems as good as new, but I'm not sure. I can no longer see the
worn spot (It's like where someone parts his hair you can see his
scalp, but if his hair is messed up, you can't) But I can still see
the color of the carpet underneath.
The only problem is that it is hard to start rolling my chair. The
plastic mat has little legs, maybe a quarter inch high that are
supposed to go into the nap of the carpet. The weight of the chair I
think makes the chair sink down between the mat legs, so it has to go
uphill a quarter inch to get started rolling. And it sort of goes
bumpeta bumpeta when it rolls. But I don't know if a new one would be
any better. Or if I should cut all the mat legs shorter. Or
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