Installing Garage Pegboard


I plan to add two quarter-inch 4' x 8' perforated hardboard pegobard panels over the existing drywal lon one wall of my garage.
I know I need to use 1"x2" furring strips at the top, bottom, and sides of each pegboard sheet, but do I also need to use furring strips on each vertical stud under the pegboard?. That is, if I only install strips at the top, bottom and sides of a 4'x8' sheet, would it flex too much in the middle if there aren't furring strips on each vertical stud behind the pegboard?
I'd just go ahead and put them on each stud, but the more strips I use, the more holes in the pegboard that become unusable - so I'd rather only do it if necessary to properly support the pegboard.
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IMO, some center support is necessary. At a minimum one every 2 foot of w or h.
They sell some neat little bushing/washers that will solve this problems for you.
The bad news is they cost more than adding a simple vertical strip on 16 or 24" CC. Use something like one of your furring strips ripped into half or thirds for the vertical member.
Colbyt
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Use furring strips around the edges for edge-support, and then cut your own bushings out of scrap wood as stand-offs for each individual screw on the interior. Pre-drill them, or they'll split.
At 16" o.c., If you screw through the existing holes, you use up 10 spots. on the interior. If you can fit the stand-offs between holes, you won't use up any.
Around the edges, you can still use duplex/scaffold nails instead of pegboard hangers.
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Yes, you do. If you don't put some support in the center of the peg board the peg board will bow out above and bow in below any pegs with semi heave items hanging on them.
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snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

I have pegboard in my shed nailed to wall studs on 2-foot centers and it seems to work very well. Since you have to put it over sheet rock, my knee-jerk suggestion would be to use only horizontal furring strips, with nothing on the sides. I would use five furring strips spaced 2-feet apart and screw the peg board on, through an existing hole, using a power screwdriver. Use some screws with very large heads or built-in washers. I would pre-drill holes in the furring strips and fasten then on to the studs with screws also.
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if you are a clutter saver you will never have enough pegboard holes. first have a garage sale. second, it will flex too much. i have that same pegboard in my shop. install the support strips to support the maximum load of hammers and extension cords etc which could hang there in the future.
snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

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On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 01:39:25 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote:

I cut some 1/4" pieces of 1/2 in pvc pipe to use instead of furring strips.
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wrote: <snip>

That is one great suggestion!
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Mark the area to be covered by the peg-board on the wall. Find the studs in that area Frame the outside edge of the area with furring strips Cut short furring strips (3-4" long) and tack these evenly along the stud lines within your fame about 12" apart Now hang your peg-board. Screw securely to the outer frame and to the short inner strips. I'd pre-drill and use screws long enough to reach clear thru the peg-board, furring strips, and drywall to reach the studs, and use washers to keep them from pulling through the board.
With this you only lose a few holes where the blocks are and around the edges. You might be able to make use of these areas to put a stronger screw-in hook to hang something that might be too heavy for the peg-board hooks.

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