I'm looking for suggestions on what home humidifier to get.
Any helpful suggestions out there? Has anyone had experiences with
the AprilAire or the York system?
What should I look for in a humidifier to take care of a 1000 square
foot house with forced air?
Consumer reports was worthless on this issue. They didn't have
ratings for any of them. I've gotten quotes as high as $800 for a
model another vendor wants $500 for. Now it sounds like the model I
was looking for is about as good as the next model down which is just
Help -- looking for suggestions.
IMO, you can't beat Aprilaire. I've had the powered fan model, 760?,
for about 7 years now. It's a simple, clean design, easy to install
and clean. All I've done is replace the media element every couple
years. To do that, you just lift off the fan/case assembley, no tools
I'm not a big fan of the bypass models that short circuit some air
around the furnace instead of using a fan. First, they decrease
blower capacity and you have to remember to close off the thing during
AC season. Second, sending hot moist air over a metal heat exchanger
doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Do you have any experience with the York model?
One contractor I got a quote from said the AA was not as tough as the
York. If I did an AprilAire it would be the model 700 so your review
On 15 Dec 2006 10:31:05 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I just installed an Aprilaire 550 about two months ago. It replaced a
Fieds Control unit (with a media wheel) that was rusting out after 4
years. The AA 550 is a bypass unit and is all plastic with an integral
damper. It bleeds off a small amount of water when running to minimize
lime buildup. It is working well. I purchased the AA because I had a
similar unit in another house that was at least ten years old and was
working well when we sold the house.
BTW I bought mine from Arnold Service Co. Good fast service and an
interesting website. arnoldservice.com
BUZZ! I'm sorry, that's completely the wrong answer, but thanks for
playing our game. Jacqui has a year's supply of Rice-A-Roni, "the San
Francisco treat", as a parting gift for you back stage.
#1: In many areas of the country, the humidity level goes down during
#2: If USGuy has a forced air heating system of any kind, heating the
air then dries it further over time. Sealing the air into the house
only ensures the already low humidity level will go down.
#3: If USGuy lives in an older house with a gas-permeable foundation,
you've now told him to raise the radon levels in his house without
cautioning him to have a radon test done periodically or have a radon
sensing unit in the living space.
I will say your suggestion is valid for lowering heating costs, as many
people are unaware as to how much heat (and cool in the Summer) is lost
through inefficient doors and windows as well as poor insulation.
BUT, I hope you're not an engineering student at Villanova. Whatever
your major, if my cousin in Downingtown ever sees this post, on behalf
of 'Nova alums everywhere she's gonna find you and whup you upside the
head for embarrassing the school.
The absolute amount of water vapor in colder outdoor air is less.
Wrong. Heating air does not change the moisture content at all.
Wrong. Houses contain humidity sources. Andersen says showers, cooking,
breathing, green plants, and so on add about 2 gallons of water per day
to house air for an average family of 4. In a perfectly airtight house,
the RH would keep rising until condensation occurred on the coolest
indoor surface, eg a window pane.
Radon tests and fixes are good.
... while naturally raising the indoor relative humidity.
I've had 4 humidifiers installed in a 1400 square foot house in the cold
Northeast USA over the last 35 years. The first two each lasted only a few
years. The 2 Aprilaires have been absolutely outstanding. One lasted 18
years and the other was just installed a couple years ago. They are
extremely efficient, quiet, automatic (including ability to compensate for
outdoor temperature), easy to install, and fully supported by a very
reliable manufacturer in Wisconsin. I am neither an installer or have any
vested interested in them. I am merely a very satisfied consumer Their top
model was available a couple years ago on the web for about $250 and took a
couple hours to install. Should be maybe a $400 to $500 job in my opinion,
but your local installers may charge more for their time.
About three years ago, the same discussion appeared on this particular
NewsGroup. I wrote:
A humidifier for home or apartment is not something that should be left
unmaintenanced for several months. For that reason, I don't purchase the
conventional humidifiers. In some of the homes and apartments I have been
in I use two Rubbermaid trays and four sponges. I have built a simple rack
to hold the trays and put them in front of one of the cold air return
registers in the apartments. Then, lean the sponges onto the register. Turn
the furnace on and then fill the trays with hot water. The moisture will
absorb into the sponge and the air moving over the sponge and into the cold
air return will circulate through the furnace and out the hot air registers.
If it has been dry before, there will be a noticeable change in the quality
of the air in the rooms. It is finally breatheable. I, like many others,
need the humidity in the air or my breathing apparatus will crack from the
dryness, and is, therefore, subject to all of the viruses that can attack.
In a couple of apartments that I had inhabited, I built an aluminum angle
rack to hold the two trays, and the cold air return was up high -- the
furnace was downdraft. I had a short aluminum ladder to get up to the
humidifier to fill it with hot water. I have a small electric pump and
control system for my hand and a water tube that stretches from the kitchen
sink to the humidifier, which is only about 10' away. I fill a small bucket
with hot water and then, with the pump in the water, turn it on and the hot
water comes out of the small tubing into the humidifier trays, where I cover
the sponges with hot water while I am filling the trays. The furnace should
be running while this operation is performed so that the rooms will be
immediately filled with warm, moist air.
On a home, a register could be cut into the cold air return on the furnace,
and an aluminum angle rack made to hold two of the Rubbermaid trays with the
four sponges. In this way the humidifier can be maintained properly and
filled when low on water. It should be filled with hot water while the
furnace is running to gain full advantage of the warm, moist air moving. The
trays usually need filling about once a month, or every two weeks when it
gets really cold out and the furnace runs a lot.
With such a system, the quality of the moist air in the rooms is held at a
high standard. The four sponges will begin to crust a little at the top
where the moisture is mostly removed from but with the maintaining schedule
the sponges can be easily removed from the trays and cleaned and rinsed in a
Great idea. Instead of a $250 system like Aprilaire that requires
maintenance once a season, the way to go is this contraption that
requires constant maintenance. Careful you don't trip over that water
line from the sink. Or maybe you have and that's how you came up with
I am very familiar with the commercial type humidifiers. To say that a
humidifier doesn't need any maintenance but once a year is to say that the
water in it is stale and not fit for circulation throughout the home, not to
mention the crust built up on the rotating "sponge". Some folks -- me
included -- are very sensitive to dry air in the home, and the relief that
warm, moist air brings is a blessing. I'm for changing the water in the
humidifier about once a week, and making sure that the sponges are kept up
so that the moisture circulates properly.
And as far as "don't trip over that water line from the sink", I don't. It
is not a permanent setup; just when I refill the water trays. A pitcher of
hot water would work also, pouring over the sponges and filling the trays.
And, it doesn't cost $250 or more, plus the cost of installation by a
061220 1129 - email@example.com posted:
Your reply demonstrates that you are unaware that there are whole-house
humidifiers that don't have rotating sponges and trays of stinky water,
and require little-to-no maintenance during the season.
Instead, a water line is run (usually off the water supply to the hot
water heater) and the humidifier is a vertical "chunk" of filter down
which water runs only when humidity is called for, and the tray
underneath drains to a sink (in our case, using the condensate pump for
the air conditioner). This way, no bacteria can build up in standing
water, you don't get anywhere NEAR the mineral build-up on the
humidifying "sponge/filter", and you don't need to change materials but
once a season or year.
Yes, you still need to close the air deflector and turn it off out of
the heating season, and yes, it costs more to install, but it's still a
lot lower maintenance and mess than what you describe, and it's
healthier for the occupants of the house.
Since installing an AprilAire unit two years ago, I haven't gotten a
chest cold, upper or lower respiratory infection or bronchitis once,
when in years past I would get bronchitis at least once a Winter (and
have had pneumonia three times in 25 years). My doctor says it is due
in part to the fact my humidifier isn't blowing bacteria into the
house's air, like previous ones did.
Just my 2 cents' worth...
unit. I've replaced various parts that have failed over the years,
usually available through Sears Parts stores and all pretty simple to
install. I've had to go to other sources recently, since Sears seems
to be trimming their inventory of parts - definitely not a good
thing, IMO. I completely disassemble it to clean it and replace the
media twice a season (probably not often enough). My only complaint
is that I've had to replace various parts that have failed over the
years. There are far too many moving parts compared to the other
type (I don't know what it's called). If I were going to replace
this unit, I'd probably get an AprilAire. They're simpler, virtually
no moving parts, no reservoir of stagnant water, and the company has
been around forever.
Just my 2 cents.
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