The base molding (two inches high) at an inside corner has about a 1/8"
gap at the inner edge (as though both miter angles are a few degrees
less than 45 degrees). The mitered ends (along with the rest of the
molding) were primed and painted before being nailed in place. What
should I use to fill the gap? The choices are wood filler, caulk, and
spackling compound. The filler will be painted.
I can make 20 perfect inside corner joints on a decent power miter saw
in the time it takes you to make one coped inside corner joint (if
you're lucky and don't screw up the coping).
If I want to make adjustments of a fraction of a degree, I use folded
paper on the backside of the molding in the appropriate spot.
But I agree on the caulk if this is painted molding.
Ummm, no, you couldn't. Please don't try to equate a coped joint with
a mitered joint in all situations. Mitered joints, and caulk, have
their place, but both bring additional problems.
You mean you've either never noticed the problem, never used large
enough trim to make you notice the problem, or you don't see the point
in spending more time in working on your craftsmanship when a little
caulk will make it look good for a while.
Post this question in rec.woodworking and you won't get too many "Ah,
a little caulk'll do ya fine" answers. There's a lot more woodworking
experience over there than on this newsgroup.
Let's investigate this a bit. So instead of adjusting your cutting
angles to make the mitered trim fit the corner, you shim the molding
away from the wall to make it fit your miter? What you're saying is
that you are going to caulk no matter what you do.
Caulk is a band-aid, not craftsmanship.
Uh, you misunderstood what I'm talking about. I can make adjustments
to my cut WHEN USING THE SAW in fractions of a degree by placing
folded paper between the molding and the saw guide where appropriate.
Ah, right, that wasn't clear.
One major advantage of a coped joint is that you only have to use
precision on one piece, the other is just a straight cut.
Another major advantage of a coped joint is that it is not very
sensitive to the corner's angle. The coped piece is backcut and gives
a fair degree of flexibility - probably on the order of a couple or
three degrees. It actually makes it easier to achieve a tight meeting
between the two pieces.
One of the fallacies of using a miter saw is that the smooth face of
the cut provides a better fit. It doesn't matter in a coped joint.
The back of a coped piece looks like a beaver went at it, but the face
only shows a tight line between the two pieces that is not affected
nearly as much by swings in temperature and humidity as a mitered
corner. Old time woodworkers wouldn't waste time on getting precise
fits on things that were hidden that didn't affect longevity or
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