I am building a 16" deep stand. The top and sides will be a miter joint.
My RAS will only cut 15.5". Any way to get that extra half inch? If it
were a 90 cut I would just flip it over, but you can't do that with a 45.
And no, I can't do it on my TS. I have an oversized motor on it, and it
sticks out above the table when set to 45. I found that out the hard way;
ran into the motor when I was concentrating on the blade.
I am thinking about moving the fence back an inch and putting a 1" shim in.
Then putting a fence on the table perpendicular to the regular fence.
Making my cut and locking the saw all the way back, removing the shim and
completing the cut by sliding the work back against the perpendicular fence
and repeating the cut.
Yeah, its half-assed, but I can't think of a better alternative. Well,
other than telling the customer it has to be 15.5"; or just doing it that
size, I doubt anyone would ever know.
skill saw and a strait edge. or finnish the cut with a router and a
chamforing bit and a strait edge. how much does the motor stick up?
if not a lot you could make a sled smaller than the 16" required and
let the piece overhang the sled.
Actually, yes, and to accomplish other goals, too, maybe.
I took Ian Kirby's advice and made a simple sled jig to hold work at 45
deg to table. His main argument is that contractors' t/s-s have such
flimsy links between angle-adjusting trunnions that you get the arbor
located to do 90 deg. and make jigs to cut at all other angles.
Made eminent sense to me, even for my Hitachi, or Maki/ta t/s. Jigs
for 45, tenoning, and 10deg (raised panels) need only to clamp the
work, set the fence, and set blade ht.
You need to cut longer pieces, you make longer sled jig. (Within
Even on a "good" table saw I think jigging is the way to go. You spend
a little time on the jig and get it right and then everything goes
quickly and safely. And then you have the jig forever - and can crank
out your miters in a snap.
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