How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

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Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman 358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?
Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new, I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling the string.
The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog chainsaw?).
Anyway, I'm stuck with it.
I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasoline:oil mixture in the tank; but it's STILL hard to start.
Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more often than not, it does not start.
I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.
Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman 358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?
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I remove the screen spark arrestors on the muffler outlet and it helps, but leaving any gas in it for a few months can gum up a carb, if its under warranty why mess with it , A quick search and I see it has high reviews, dont you have a manual that shows carb settings, sears online should have the manual then clean the carb.
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== The chainsaw is probably made by Poulon (mine is). Try them...they have operator's manual for download if you could quote a similar model number,
==
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Whoops...that should be Poulan...a spellin' error. ==
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:01:18 -0700, Roy wrote:

Lots of Craftsman chain saws are Poulan. Mines a Poulan PP3516.
Look here for a manual http://www.billious.com/ipls/pwe/pp3516%2Cpp4018_om_2005-06-03.pdf
Call Poulan for help 1-800-554-6723
There's nothing you can really adjust except the "T" screw (the "L" and "H" screws are California locked). The chain saw has to be thrown away once every two years as they won't last any longer than that (certified to last only 125 hours in California).
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:42:04 -0700 (PDT), Roy wrote:

I went to Ace Hardware today and saw some Poulan chain saws ... and you're right I think. The motor looks pretty similar, even down to the muffler and choke and on/off switch arrangement.
I'll see if Poulan has a tune up procedure.
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Sounds like you spend all your time poulan on the start cord?
--
Christopher A. Young
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== From fixya.com
Try removing the fuel cap for a moment, then try restart. If ok, check the fuel vent for plugging. Check the fuel filter for plugging. Inspect the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Check for spark when it stops--it may be the ignition module failing when hot. Check for sawdust and dirt plugging the ventilation system--blow it out with compressed air. Does the engine 4-stroke at speed when not cutting, but does 2-stroke when cutting? Make sure the chain is being oiled while running. Hope this helps!
note: fuel vent is the little hole in the cap. If this hole is completely plugged the motor won't run or will run erratically.
==
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:54:51 -0700 (PDT), Roy wrote:

Fuel filter?
I didn't know a 2-stroke chain saw has a fuel filter. Gotta look for that.
I did clean the whole thing out with compressed air to no avail. Wouldn't even start this morning. Something must have happened as I couldn't start it at all.
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Fuel filter is in the gas tank. There is a rubber tube, and the filter often has a weight, so that it stays on the bottom of the tank, as you tip the saw back and forth. You'll need a paper clip bent into a J-hook to pull the rubber hose and filter out.
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On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:02:42 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Come to think of it, the chain saw DID start blurbling in a deep bass sound when I was tilting it while running.
It no longer runs. I will check out this hidden fuel filter and clean it out with compressed air if I can.
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They aren't really cleanable. Please search out another one, and buy two (one for now, one for later.)
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It sounds like you are flooding it when you try to start it. Try this way.....first take out the plug and let it sit overnight to make sure ther isn't any gas in cylinder. The next day put the plug back in and only push the primer bulb 2-3 times at most. Turn choke to full. If it don't start within 3 pulls, take the choke off, hold the throttle wide open and pull a few more times. If it stil doesn't start, take it to someone who knows how to adjust your carb. Some carbs need a special tool anyway. If you want to try to adjust it and the stops are not on it, turn both screws clockwise until they stop, then back them both out about 1 1/4 turn, then get it running and adjust both at full speed and idle.
Hank
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:28:41 -0700 (PDT), Hustlin' Hank wrote:

I understand that 6x is a lot of accelerator pump but it says so in multiple spots on the chain saw covers. The first thing the Sears 800 technical support asked is whether I pressed the bulb six times before doing anything else.
Maybe it's a California thing; but 6x is the recommended number.
I'm beginning to wonder if I lost spark ... since it has gas and air ...
Is there a way to tell if it has a spark?
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Same as lawn mower. Take the spark plug out, and hold it to a metal part of the body. Move to a dark area so you can see the spark easier. Switch to "RUN". Pull rip cord, look for spark at the plug gap.
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On Aug 21, 7:04am, "Stormin Mormon"

Hard to do on a chainsaw while holding the saw, the plug, the pull cord, and snatching all at the same time.
I made a short cord to do the trick. Has a standard alligator clip on one end and a battery cable clip on the other. The battery cable clip clamps to the spark plug body and the alligator clip to any convenient piece of metal on the motor. That frees up my hands for other things and keeps me from getting shocked.
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They also make a spark plug tester that even allows you to adjust a gap to see if your spark is strong enough-- Unless you do it often, knowing whether you just have a spark-- or a 'strong spark' - is guesswork.
I'm sure a Google search for spark plug tester will turn up several tools-
Jim
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wrote:

Grand Daddy taught me to check for the color of the spark. A yellow/orange is a weak plug, gap or ignition. Change the gap on the plug first and try again.
A bright blue, that snaps is a strong spark.
(like a gas stove - blue flames are hotter than orange flames)
--
shade tree mechanic

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The mush button for the gas is the primer. Try it x2 pushes, instead of six. Sounds like you're flooding the hell out of it.
Look for small slotted screw that turns up the idle (I'm no help to say where that might be).
Mix a galon of brand new gas. Use name brand (Mobil, Exxon, Hess, BP) not the cheap brands like Road Apple Quick Fill.
Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects. I've bought Autolite, or NGK. If it fails to start, look at the spark plug. Wet? Flooded. My gut sense is that you're flooding the system with too much gas. "won't start till the next day" is the clue. Gives the gas a chance to dry out.
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
I know that happened 30 years ago. That dead horse has bruises?
Is there the same issue? Now, today...
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