Has anyone seen a Socket Wrench for an old Square Nut?

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On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments. The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket for square nuts?
Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.
Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than having to replace those special bolts.
(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).
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On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 4:44:57 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

I have a set of Crescent sockets that are square and hex...they look like an internal spline. But I don't know if they make larger sizes?
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On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 4:44:57 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

I got this set from Menards for $20. http://tinyurl.com/z7546et
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On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

You want 8 point sockets. Expensive. But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.
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snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net says...

Actually a standard 12 point socket would be a more common choice.
--
RonNNN

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That'll work to round off the corners before you use the pipe wrench.
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On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:08:22 -0500, Vic Smith

I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.
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On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

Can you get a crow foot in there.
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On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 19:21:48 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I thought about a crow foot, but I would have to buy one. After trying all sorts of things for the last 3 days, I got aggressive and removed the entire drawbar from the tractor. Once it was off, I could easily remove that nut with an open end wrench, hammer and PB blaster. All I got to do now is buy a new hex nut, and put the whole thing back together. Sometimes the "long way" is the only way to do a job. It required removing 8 well rusted bolts, but I accomplished the job, and without any large expense. Every bolt will now get a dose of anti-sieze on the threads, so I can easily remove them in the future, and new lock washers. This Farmall tractor is 67 years old. I was actually surprised all 8 of those bolts came apart without a torch, (but did need a long pipe for leverage and a big hammer).
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On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 4:11:44 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote: Every bolt will now get a dose of anti-sieze

I never put a bolt back in dry. Anti-seize if I have it handy, but at least some moly grease.
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On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

Make a LA (Lower Alabama) socket. Find a steel pipe that will fit or almost fit down on the square nut. Hammer the pipe square, fit over the nut and use a pipe wrench to turn it.
--
Mr.E

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On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:08:22 -0500, Vic Smith

If he can't get an open end wrench on, a pipe wrench doesn't stand a chance!!!!
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Have you tried 12 point sockets? A lot of Liquid Wrench and a well fitting 12 point socket may do it. At a guess try 1 5/8". Or use a nut cracker and replace them with hex nuts. Don't focus on the inadequacy of your tool, focus on getting the job done. Your wife will thank you for this
Dave M.
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On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work), I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40 or some such.
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I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted nuts and bolts.
--
RonNNN

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On 8/2/16 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:

Hot air will probably work if those fail. These little things are handy. <http://www.ruralking.com/hobart-acetylene-tag-a-long-kit-770500.html
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That's probably a tad bit more than the OP wants to spend to loosen one square nut though.
--
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On 8/2/2016 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:

[snip]

I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil
<http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q
Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18" culvert.<g>
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snipped-for-privacy@ameritech.net says...

WD40 is good for drying out wet stuff and stopping squeaks, but doesn't work as a penetrating oil very good. I've always had good luck with PB. I've never tried Kroil before, but if it works as good as PB it's got to be good stuff.
--
RonNNN

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On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 8:32:25 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)
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