front door chime not working

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I've got a house that the door chime stopped working (making a chime noise). I know it's not the outside button and the two wires outside that connect to the button (that go thru the outside brick wall) when touching each other showed some spark. One repair guy asked me if it's a 16v or 24v transformer and I don't know. He seemed to say it's not a part of the chime box inside. I thought everything was self contained inside the chime box that mounts on the wall. Is this a DIY job??? Any good URL to watch on this repair?
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wrote:

I think this is the original chime box in a house built in 2006 located near Houston, Texas if that matters.
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Sorry to keep tagging on to my own message but how good do the wireless door bells work? I mean the door bell would be about 3 feet from the front (wood) door and if I go with the same location as the wired chime box, it's about 15 feet inside door. I could probably mount the wireless chime box much closer but the original location is more central in the home.
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On 1/7/2012 2:44 PM, Doug wrote:

One other critical piece of information is needed. Is there a door bell button for more than the front door? Does the same chime box also announce the back or other door button is pressed? If so, does that work?
Paul
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On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 16:36:44 -0800, Paul Drahn

Front Door only. One button.
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wrote:

Personally, if you already have a wired system you would be much farther ahead replacing whatever is bad and using it. The wireless pushbutton has a battery in it that is prone to failure - andif your neighbor buys one his can ring yours and vise versa.
I find them a pain, but if you didn't have wires already in place, it IS easier than wiring from scratch.
A friend also uses one, with the chime unmounted, when he's out in the fenced back yard/pool area so he can hear if someone comes to the front door.
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On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 20:43:01 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Absolutely. I only used wireless once, when my mother's apartment had no doorbell at all, and cement walls, that the landlord wouldn't have wanted me drilling holes in.
Plus you need to replace batteries. Plus the button is fat and surface mounted and and looks terrible.

OP, this is unrelated to your problem. Don't try this at home:
I had a bell in my first floor hall, and put an added bell in my basement (which required a bigger transformer because they rang at the smae time) and when I got a computer, I spent a lot of time on the second flloor. Didn't want to bother running wires, so I bought wireless, soldered close the wireless push button, removed the battery, and replace it with a connection to the transformer, that had power when the front door button was pressed. Had to add a diode to get DC currrent to the wireless button. Plugged the bell into a 2nd floor hall outlet and now the doorbell rings on all 3 floors.
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wrote:

I added a second chime in the basement at my place, and no problems at all. It's not the voltage of the transformer that is critical when adding a second chime, but the current capacity ( the va rating)
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On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 23:50:07 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

You're right, I said bigger, and I don't know if I meant amperage or amperage and voltage. It might have been that when I looked for a higher current transformer, I only found one with a higher voltage.
MY first basement doorbell wasn't a chime but one with a vibrating clapper against a round bell. The smaller of the two common sizes, but still, maybe it takes more current than a chime.
I was lucky. When rectified it was very close to 9 volts, which is what the battery in the button was supposed to be.
The whole doorbell was 4 dollars 20 years ago, and it worked for my mother for 5 or 10 years and for me for 10, until the noisemaker part that plugs in "burned up". Fortunately, I had bought two sets.
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wrote:

Thaty's practically new. They should last about 50 years.
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Doug wrote:

Just guessing, 'cause it depends on what king of chime. If the switch sparks, you've got volts and current, which suggests it's a solenoid that forces a mass into a mechanical chime. It's possible that corrosion has increased a contact resistance so much that it can't move the mass. But First thing I'd check is to see if some spider hasn't gummed up the solenoid so the core can't move and bang the gong.
In my case, the transformer is inside a coat closet above the door about half way between the button and the chime box.
Never thought about it in that context, but a transformer-operated doorbell is yet another vampire device that wastes power continuously when it's used...well...approximately never.
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I was wondering but I saw this round thing about maybe 6 to 12 inches to the side of the chime box and wondered if that was the transformer? Problem is I know nothing about that neither.
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wrote:

Mine is in the basement, in the ceiling on the floor joist, half-way between the sump pump and the furnace, and pretty far from the breaker box. Not sure why, but it's a townhouse and they probably had a reason.

That's true, but batteries sit there going dead, leaking, making one buy a whole new doorbell periodically because you can't buy the button by itself. (Do alkaine batteries leak?)

You may need to view this with fixed or proportional widthe font. The tranfromerus usually has a metal band ____ that looks like _| |_ 3/4's of a rectangle, with mounting legs, and coming out from each side is a rounded brown bulge. One side has a stiff brown piece with two metal connectors, with a wire attached to each one.
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wrote:

MOST look that way, but I've seen some pretty strange ones over the years.
And I've even seen doorbells hooked to the FURNACE CONTROL transformer (the one that operates the thermostat).
I've also seen a few older wired systems running off a lantern battery (12 volt) - a carry-over from the old 1.5 or 3 volt battery operated door buzzers of years gone by. ( using those big "ignition cells" ( the EN6 - now discontinued by Ever-ready))
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My transformer is mounted at the service panel - as is virtually every one in my entire neighbourhood, and at least half the city.
Cooking grease, cigaret smoke residue, and just plain gunge will eventually "stick up" the hammers in the average doorbell chime. I'd recommend you disconnect it, take it down, and throw it in the dishwasher - then see how it works. Replacement chimes are cheap too.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

He doesn't know what he has. YOU don't know what he has. Telling him to put it in the dishwasher is irresponsible.
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Thanks Mike... you're right except I didn't take the dishwasher serious tho for the first moment it made me stop to think about it. Tho I don't know where the transformer is in this home right now, I think if I saw it, I would now recognize it. And apparently reading other posts, tells me it's not the problem. I know the button isn't the problem from testing it on another house so the only answer left is that the problem is within the chime box. Appreciate your help.
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wrote:

Well, we KNOW the problem is not due to a mouse chewing the wire, or a nail, because of the simple tests and observations that have already been reported, and the fact that at least a couple of us actually understand how the circuit works.. Your reports (first hand) of your - I hate to use the word, but there is no other that fits - STUPIDITY shows YOU do NOT understand the circuit or the problem.
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On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:24:30 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I don't think I've ever seen you so nasty. Take a laxative, and maybe you'll be okay by tonight.
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wrote:

I'm generally not nasty - and tried not to be in that reply - but there is no other accurate description.
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