Flat Screen TVs

[Robert Neville]

Wall mounts are designed to mount to the wall either by means of a drywall anchor or screws into the stud. The TVs use standard VESA spacing connectors on the back that mate with the mount.

[Steve B]

No, Ed. I've seen pictures, and heard of people who just slap the mount up there, put four small screws into the drywall, and hang their huge heavy thingus on there. AND, they are so good that they don't even need a level! For a little bit, that is. Finding studs, and using proper anchors is not a given for some DIY installers. Hey, if the nail goes in, or the screw will go into the drywall, that's good enough. For a while, anyway. Or, they have some of the little plastic sleeves left over from picture hanging.............

Steve

[Robert Neville]

Theoretically, the better drywall anchors are rated for up to 70 pounds per anchor. As it's unlikely you would have a 280 pound TV these days (even with the weight of the mount), that should be sufficient to hold it up with no problem.

I agree with you though - I'd prefer screws into the studs. The location of the TV on the wall may not allow for that though depending on the size of the TV.

[leonard hofstadter]

Yes, mounting to wall seems best solution any more, but what to do with wiring and additional equipment?

I've seen a kind of enclosure that hides the wire that fastens against the wall, seems simple enough for those that don't want to tear up their walls running wire and cable, or in older houses with plaster/lathe that would be almost unopossible without a lot of work, but they seem only large enough to hold one maybe two wires --- other alternatives?

Where to place cable box or dvr equipment, within wires/cable reach? [without having some kind of stand right there or built into wall]

Again, running wires and cable some where seems inevitable?

[gfretwell]

The one we have has a 13" deep TV bay with a shelf extending out over a deeper base unit. I built my own articulating bracket that fastens to the side of the bay and gives me 90 degrees of rotation so we can see the TV from the other room. I did do a little geometry trick so it also extends out far enough to clear the cabinet while out and nesting, centered over the hole, retracted. The hole in back is a good place to set the net connected computer that will be the front end of any 21st century TV. The wireless desktop works fine from my recliner.

[Metspitzer]

I use velcro tie wraps. They are reusable. They also work great for cable management inside computers.

In places that won't be seen, I use small screws to screw the tie wraps to the back of the furniture.

[krw]

Um, have you considered how deep a 47" CRT TV would be? Even that 36" TV is a lot deeper than an entertainment unit needs to be today.

I'm with you there, and that doesn't solve your "problem" anyway.

I have the stand. It's actually pulled away from the wall far enough to walk behind it to get to the built-in book cases (and CD/DVD storage) along the wall.

[Tony Hwang]

Hi, Our 62" is sitting on a stand made for the purpose. It has room for all the components needed for home theater and wireless karaoke. 7.1 a/v amp, cable top box, Blue ray DVD player, etc. All controlled by one remote control. Big picture w/o good sound system is unthinkable.

[Higgs Boson]

All the comments are re: wall mounts of "big-ass" TVs.

That's not an option for my modest 32" bedroom Panasonic flat screen, because it's on a wheeled stand that backs up to a window.

I am worried, however, about it falling down in an earthquake (I am in So Cal). The stand that comes with the TV seems so flimsy that a good jolt would knock it over.

How can I secure the TV, short of running guy wires to all 4 corners of the stand ?

TIA

HB

[Ed Pawlowski]

Just be sure to mount the TV at a comfortable height. I've seen some that are too high and make it uncomfortable for viewing more than a few minutes. The same height as a stand is about right

You can easily make a box to hide the cables running down from the TV. It can be painted to match the wall or stained to match any furniture under it. It can be wood, it can be cardboard or metal. Check to see if you can get an RF remote for your box. I have one with DirecTV and it makes life simpler. You don't have to point it at the box, you just have to be within

100' or so. The box can even be inside a cabinet.

[Ed Pawlowski]

? "Higgs Boson" wrote

At least some of the TVs come with a tether that can be attached to the back and then to the stand to prevent it tipping forward. I'd consider something like that as opposed to attaching to the wall since it is on a mobile stand. I can visualize a cable from the TV clipped to a window rod and someone wanting to clean and moves the mobile base away, leaving the TV to dangle. That would hurt!

[aemeijers]

Static weight isn't the problem. The mounted TV becomes a lever, and when a heavy truck drives by, or somebody bumps it, or an earthquake occurs, it will start tugging that pissant drywall anchor right through the wall. It has to be mounted to a couple studs, blocking, or (when all else fails) telephone-company-style to a sheet of 3/4 plywood that is screwed to the studs. It ain't rocket surgery. Only hard part is coming up with something solid that will satisfy SWMBO. Most mounts for the larger TVs that I have hung, were a couple of pipes with sliding wall brackets on them, and a sliding TV bracket that clicked onto them. As long as they crossed 2 stud bays, you could move things around a little and still have a solid mount. Given the cost of the TVs (commercial application), I always did a chin-up on the hanger bar before we hefted the TV up there. If it held me, it'd hold the TV.

-- aem sends....