Sorry for the double post, but awhile ago I had problems with my old Cub
Cadet lawn tractor and received help. Thought I would try this one.
I had my TO35 (gas) overhauled 2 years ago. Ran great for about 6 running
hours. Then started to cough and choke, just like it had before the
overhaul. I found that if I replace the condenser (that's all) it will
again run great - for about 6 - 10 running hours. This tractor is my main
farm tractor, for bushhogging; scraping, plowing, discing, etc. I respect
it and don't overwork it or try to push it's power, but I do use it often.
Anybody have any ideas of what I could check or replace, other than the
condenser, that would help this problem? Let me know if you need more info.
I am open to any and all ideas.
email@example.com (Judy and Dave G) writes:
Check to see if it is a positive or negative ground system. Some old
tractors were positive ground, which will blow holes in an electrolytic
capacitor real quick. I wouldn't expect the condenser to last 6 hours,
but it's something to check. The only change would be the polarity of
the low voltage wires going to the distributor.
Another thing to check would be the gas tank screen and vent, and the
sediment bowl screen.
You guys are making me feel just a bit stupid. I have cleaned the sediment
bowl but have never seen a screen. And I have no idea where the gas tank
screen and vent is.
I really am hoping that book gets here PDQ.
Just a hunch. Try changing the coil. The condenser and
coil work as a pair. If they are mismatched, $#!+ will
happen. Ususally by burning the points. Remember, free
advice is worth what you paid for it.
Does your computer have Worms???
Don't get mad . . . . Get Linux
I thought about this also and had already ordered the coil. But when I
checked the 2 out, they were the same. No problem with the old one. I now
have a coil to use if I ever need one.
If they are mismatched, $#!+ will
I think I remember that last post - wasn't it regarding
On rare occasions there are parts change-overs and a new
generic (or "later generation") part is chosen to replace
the original one, but turns out to be marginal or
unsuitable. When this does happen, re-ordering may get you
more of the same - even years later when you assume the
manufacturer would have some idea of the problem! I am not
saying this is your case, but what I am saying is that no
mater what you replace, it is not a always a good idea to
assume that component cannot be causing the problem. I
recall replacing the same power transistor in a circuit
SEVEN times before getting one that worked, even though all
of them including the original tested good...
When a problem such as yours you may have to face the
possibility your problem is "unconventional". I.e. once I
found dirty shims between a starter and engine block that
broke the ground connection to the starter motor - the
engine didn't even try to crank with a good battery, wiring
connections and starter solenoid. Your problem could be
points or coil mounting or dirty hardware (all very, very
rare) or something equally bizarre - so you may have to pay
close attention to all facets of circuit operation and
theory in case you are not dealing with a component failure.
Also, diagnosis changes significantly if after your 6 hours
of operation, any components show unusual signs of wear, or
if the engine will operate again after a "rest period".
Judy and Dave G wrote:
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