Ferguson TO35 tractor

Hello.
Sorry for the double post, but awhile ago I had problems with my old Cub Cadet lawn tractor and received help. Thought I would try this one.
I had my TO35 (gas) overhauled 2 years ago. Ran great for about 6 running hours. Then started to cough and choke, just like it had before the overhaul. I found that if I replace the condenser (that's all) it will again run great - for about 6 - 10 running hours. This tractor is my main farm tractor, for bushhogging; scraping, plowing, discing, etc. I respect it and don't overwork it or try to push it's power, but I do use it often.
Anybody have any ideas of what I could check or replace, other than the condenser, that would help this problem? Let me know if you need more info.
I am open to any and all ideas.
Thanks
Dave
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snipped-for-privacy@fuse.net (Judy and Dave G) writes:

Check to see if it is a positive or negative ground system. Some old tractors were positive ground, which will blow holes in an electrolytic capacitor real quick. I wouldn't expect the condenser to last 6 hours, but it's something to check. The only change would be the polarity of the low voltage wires going to the distributor.
Another thing to check would be the gas tank screen and vent, and the sediment bowl screen.
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It is a negative ground.

You guys are making me feel just a bit stupid. I have cleaned the sediment bowl but have never seen a screen. And I have no idea where the gas tank screen and vent is.
I really am hoping that book gets here PDQ.
Dave

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Judy and Dave G wrote:

Just a hunch. Try changing the coil. The condenser and coil work as a pair. If they are mismatched, $#!+ will happen. Ususally by burning the points. Remember, free advice is worth what you paid for it.
Tim
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I thought about this also and had already ordered the coil. But when I checked the 2 out, they were the same. No problem with the old one. I now have a coil to use if I ever need one.
Dave
If they are mismatched, $#!+ will

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I think I remember that last post - wasn't it regarding battery charging?!
On rare occasions there are parts change-overs and a new generic (or "later generation") part is chosen to replace the original one, but turns out to be marginal or unsuitable. When this does happen, re-ordering may get you more of the same - even years later when you assume the manufacturer would have some idea of the problem! I am not saying this is your case, but what I am saying is that no mater what you replace, it is not a always a good idea to assume that component cannot be causing the problem. I recall replacing the same power transistor in a circuit SEVEN times before getting one that worked, even though all of them including the original tested good...
When a problem such as yours you may have to face the possibility your problem is "unconventional". I.e. once I found dirty shims between a starter and engine block that broke the ground connection to the starter motor - the engine didn't even try to crank with a good battery, wiring connections and starter solenoid. Your problem could be points or coil mounting or dirty hardware (all very, very rare) or something equally bizarre - so you may have to pay close attention to all facets of circuit operation and theory in case you are not dealing with a component failure.
Also, diagnosis changes significantly if after your 6 hours of operation, any components show unusual signs of wear, or if the engine will operate again after a "rest period".
Best,
Stephen Kurzban
Judy and Dave G wrote:

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