Just finished a remodel and hung a house full of drywall and skim coated
everything. The hardwood guys broke off some sections of the skim coated
surface when undercutting some of the jams. Can I just fill those without
the use of tape?
Secondly, I cut out a small hole in front of a stud to
bury a bracket for a railing detail. Can I just fill it in without the use
My understanding is that tape is only necessary when repairing a
stress crack or hole that goes all the way through the drywall, or when
splicing in a piece of drywall. Is this true?
Also is paper or fiberglass
tape better or easier to work with?
I am using Hamilton's 20 minute
compound for all the repairs, even skimming last coat.. Hope this is OK!
mike, if the section of skim coating that is missing is small and did not
penetrate the paper surface then I think you can get by w/o doing anything
other than dampening the solid area of the skimmed surface and adding some
new compound to fill in. In your second spot I also think you can get by w/o
tape, but in this instance I would use some light-weight spackling compound
instead of dry wall mud. This stuff is premixed and contains additives
(vinyl or latex, I think) to make it more flexible than regular dry wall
mud. It comes in plastic containers in various sizes from pints to quarts,
half gallons, and larger. You'll know it's the right stuff when you pick it
up b/c the stuff is so light that the container feels like it's empty. It's
almost like a stiff meringue and very easy to work with. It goes on smooth
and dries fast and rock hard. It's a little harder to sand than regular mud
so try to be neat with it. Also, once it's dry it doesn't dissolve like dry
wall compound. I always keep some of this stuff in my workshop to repair
dings and cracks in my plaster walls and it is great stuff.
I almost forgot--when to use the tape: Mostly this is a judgment call.
Usually, if the repair is small, say less than silver dollar sized, I don't
bother with tape. sometimes I get away w/o tape on larger repairs up to say
about the size of half your fist if the repair is in an out of the way spot,
like high up. anything bigger than about 3 or 4 inches that has broken the
surface of the paper should probably be taped. If you have a large hole that
has penetrated the dry wall I usually make a patch with a piece of dry wall
that is about an 1-1/2 larger in each direction of the hole. Square up the
hole, then score the back side of your patch piece to the same size as the
hole. Snap the score lines just like you do when cutting a sheet, but
instead of cutting the front side of the paper, peel the gypsum off leaving
the front paper facing. This should peel off in one easy piece. Now you're
left w/ a patch of drywall the size of your hole with a paper 'flange' all
around. Depending on the size and location of the hole you may need to
reinforce it from the inside. Use your imagination. I've used everything
from paint stirrers to scraps of dry wall to pieces of 2x4. Just attach your
patch and mud up and feather the 'flange' just as if it were tape.
As for paper or fiberglass, I think the paper is usually easier to work
with, but the fiberglas might be better for new construction where the
building may still settle some. Fiberglas may also be easier for some people
to use on a ceiling b/c it can self stick to the joints w/o a bedding coat
of mud first. Anything that minimizes the time your arms are up over your
head has to be a good thing.
never seen a skim coat fall off and leave a hole AnnG.
stick to tile......................you fat bastard!
when did Artie Boy become a woman?
or are you still NOT sure of your sexuality?
to the OP
no tape is needed.
fill with spackle.
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