i'm about to hang my first ever sheet of drywall, in my garage
conversion, and have a question about cutting out around the windows.
for reference see:
if i hang the drywall first, then put a hole in the window opening and
cut around the edges, i'll get a window cutout, but is it the one i
want? i.e., there are a couple of 2x4's around the window and i think
maybe i want to be at the inner edge of the outer one, right?
actually, i have no clue. but if it's not the inner most one, then how
do i cut the opening for an outer one?
i'm not doing anything fancy here. i just want to cut out the window
and finish it in the simplest manner possible. so, how do i do that?
lastly, i plan on hanging the drywall vertically, instead of
horizontally, because it'll make doing the door easier, i think. (see:
www.linter.org/pictures/door.jpg) is there any real good reason to do
it the "official" way?
Just hang the drywall horizontally it's easier to mud and tape. You will not
see horizontal lines as much as you will vertical. Cut the drywall to
whatever the opening is. Take a drywall saw and follow the 2x4 studs, do
the same for all openings. Outside of each stud. It should be nailed first.
"you can lead them to LINUX
but you can\'t make them THINK"
Cut around the inner edge of the inner 2x4's, i.e., the smallest opening you
can get. Just let the saw follow the opening. Trim the window by adding
extension jambs (just pieces of 1x lumber cut to the correct width) to hide the
cut edges of the drywall, then cut and nail the molding around the opening.
Hang the drywall any way you please. Actually it will be easier for a beginner
to finish if it is vertical, as there are no butt joints to tape.
Ideally, you should flush the edge of the drywall with inner side of
the rough opening and then the window/door jam should extend in to be
flush with the face of the drywall. Door/window casing then covers
Just like wood, drywall has a "grain" that should run perpendicular to
the studs. Install it horizontally. Do the ceiling first and -do
not- use any screws within 12-18 inches of the walls. The ceiling
edges should be supported by the sheets on the walls. This will
minimize cracking at the ceiling/wall joint. Work top down.
Tip 1: Remove the door to work that opening.
Tip 2: If, as I suspect, your jams do not extend in 1/2" past the
studs and you're not going to use casing, then cut the drywall flush
with the inner window/door openings and cover the edge of the drywall
with metal J-bead. This will at least give a finished edge that will
hold up to abuse.
Tip 3: A Rotozip with the appropriate cutter is the way to make these
Good luck. Personally I hate doing drywall.
as regards the rotozip, i've got the dremel equivalent and riddle me
this: on a test piece of drywall, i clamped a board to the back and
attempted to do a cutout from the front. i zipped from the middle over
to the edge and basically the dremel just cut right into the wood and
wedged in there. how do you make a perimeter cut without nudging into
the wood all the way around?
On 7 Nov 2005 08:24:10 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
Yep. I just closed up a ceiling that I had opened while adding some
recessed lighting. There was an existing 2' x 2' skylight well that
was finished drywall. I added some standard metal corner bead against
the existing drywall but -under- the new sheet I was installing on the
ceiling. I ran the Rotozip cutter against the corner bead and made a
perfect cutout. Slipped the bead out, put it over the new sheet,
nailed and mudded it.
Let me start by saying that I'm not a professional. My drywall
experience is limited to a couple of basement jobs and an office
addition on my house. But maybe I can add a bit of beginners'
perspective that the professionals have forgotten. The problem I see
with hanging it horizontally is that, while there are certainly fewer
vertical joints, they are all butt joints - a curse, from the
beginner's point of view. While I've gotten much better at this over
the years, I still avoid them like the plague. One way to minimize
this is to hang 12' sheets, but that makes it more difficult to
maneuver around the site and remember - we're talking about
beginners. Hanging it vertically means that *all* of the joints are
tapered joints - much easier for a beginner to tape. Maybe not great
advice, but something to consider.
Where were you with that tidbit 8 years ago when I did my
office?!?!?! Also -- I have a truss system in my attic. Would this
have reduced the problem with cracking between the ceiling and walls
on my second floor? (The original drywall guy evidently wasn't aware
of any special requirements with this type of system)
Wes Stewart knows what he's talking about. Horizontal also gives you
less seam to tape. To minimize the inevitable cracking, don't put any
seams in line with the jambs. In other words, if you have vertical
seams near the door or window, try to get them near the middle, even if
it means using partial sheets.
Do it right, do it once.
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