Craftsman Garage Door Opener 1/2 HP

My Garage Door will not shut properly. It will only go up when using remotes or wall-mounted button. To make the door go down, I must hold down the wall-mounted button the entire time the door is closing, until it is completely shut. I increased the down speed. I reset the remotes. Craftsman does not have a helpline anymore. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Thanks.
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I would guess that there is a contact or relay that is not opening or closing inside. Open it up and jiggle/tap all such components with the power disconnected, then try it again.
Bob
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I had the same problem awhile back, the down safety photo eye was out of alignment.

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

No. you didn't, unless you increased the AC voltage. The only adjustments are for upper limit, lower limit, opening force, and closing force.

If the remote system was at fault, the door woudn't close when the wall button was held down continuously, which bypasses the safety mechanisms (force sensor, optical beam sensor).
If the opener will close normally with the door disconnected from it, then the problem is with the door mechanism. Otherwise it's probably with the optical safety sensor.
Assuming the opener works fine without the door, check its balance. It should slowly fall when held open 1/3 of the way, slowly rise when held open 2/3 of the way. Adjust cables or springs, but only with the spring under minimum tension (door fully open). Be sure to unplug the power to the opener when working on the door so it doesn't start unexpectedly, which can be deadly (very easy for a hand or hair to get stuck). Friction in the door mechanism can be from misalignment of rails or springs (one side pulling more than the other) or lack of lubrication (pivot points should be lubed with spray grease, any rollers for a rail-mouted door oiled at their shafts but nowhere else).
Check the optical safety mechanism. The lenses may simply be dirty, but if its indicator light dims for even a fraction of a second while the door is closing, then it may not be aimed quite right, or the connections at the opener may be loose (opener vibrates badly) and need to be tightened there. The wiring can also break, usually at the opener or right where it passes into the modules (insulation remains intact).
Craftsman/Liftmaster/Chamberlain openers also had a problem related to the wall button and the optical sensor circuitry sharing the same wires, and the solution was to replace the wall button with a lighted console, which was usually given out free because this was a safety slaw that allowed the door to keep closing even when the optical beam was blocked. This happened to my Craftsman opener in the first 2 weeks of ownership, and I had to speak with several people at Chamberlain before finding one who admitted to and understood the problem.

But the manufacturer, Chamberlain Industries (www.chamberlain.com), does: 1-800-528-5880. You don't have to tell them it's a Sears opener, just whether it's belt or chain drive and the approximate year of manufacture.
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Frequency, if it's an induction motor.
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