Costs of roof repairs

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I have a shingle roof that has 3 areas of repair needed. A roofing contractor looked at it and told me this. His company only does new roofs and he said I didn't need a new roof, only repair.
He also said that it's one sheet in two of the places and 3 to 5 sheets in the other place. So it would be 7 sheets total repair.
My roof is pitched from 10 feet to 8 feet high in 12 feet of length.
I'm told it's got 3/8 particle board with shingles.
I'm trying to get an approximate cost per/sheet of repair. I'm told that's how it's priced.
The board right under the roof that is a 1/2 inch by 4 and runs around the entire house also needs repair in about 20 feet of length.
I've just put out a bid for the repair, and I'm trying to get an idea of what the cost might be for the entire repair. Just a ballpark idea so that I know what "window" of price to expect.
Thanks for any help offered.
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Sorry, I should have said that this is in Northeast Florida.
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i would get mre than one estimate, how old is your roof? just exactly what is wrong with these areas.
how big is your roof? if a large percetage has troubles and the roof is in middle age your probably better off to replace the entire roof.
patching is just patching.
whenm particle board gets wet it can fall apart fast. so plan on some deck repair.
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What kind of problem do you have? Usually when a roof needs repair, in reality the whole roof needs to be replaced. Also "repairing" part of a roof will almost always look like a repair and not blend in.
--
Joseph Meehan

Dia \'s Muire duit
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While you need some decking and fascia repairs, the only way to do the job right it so do the entire roof or it will look like crap when done. Sounds like you need a better contractor and better advice. If I was a roofer, I'd refuse to do a patch on something that needs 7 sheets unless I did a complete tear-off for proper inspection.
Also, I've never heard of particle board on a roof. OSB, plywood or solid wood is OK,
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Isn't OSB 'oriented strand board' ? In other words, large wood particles and resin matrix. So small wood particles (sawdust) and resin are MDF or something...very confusing. <G>
Joe
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on 3/1/2008 1:07 PM Joe said the following:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Build/OSBMDFPart.html
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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Joe wrote:

Who was it that said; MDF is just sawdust held together by surface tension?
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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Neat! LOL... Other scientists might even go so far as to say it's Van Der Waals forces...<G>
Joe
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It should cost between $38 and $134,284.39 for the whole job, and that should include cleanup. I'm sorry that I have given you such a broad price range, but you have given a very vague description.
Call three reputable contractors in your area. Get bids. Pick one. Have it done right, and have it done all at once. All your tires are the same age. You can have them changed one at a time, or you can start with a new set. Which one would be the best?
Steve
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I bet you refused the idea of a new roof and this contractor wanted to get out of there.
with florida weathers sun and water you need the best roof you can get, not a patchwork of repairs. sorry with so much bad you really need a new roof
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If I could afford a new roof, I'd have told the first guy to do it.
Thanks. Never mind.
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sorry but extensive patching will just waste your money........
so what specificially is wrong? age of roof, missing shingles active leaks bad flashing, deck falling apart???
please tell us more so we can try to help.........
there are roofers who charge less.
like just rip off old roof toss debris on ground.
know a fellow on a budget, he laid tarps on ground collected all the debris, pilled them up to look like a compost pile, put them out one bag at a time, took over 2 years going out as regular trash. inconvenient but saved him over 600 bucks.......
sounds like you need to think out of the box the box isnt your friend.
i heard of people getting a roomate to help pay for critical home repairs.
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"Merlin" wrote

Merlin, sometimes you have to patch and it's ok as long as the one doing it does it right. The first fellow who only does 'new roofs' would be a bad pick for a patch job because he's just not familiar with that sort of work.
For your query on how much per panel, the prices will vary with area and mine are older data but it was (2001, Norfolk area) 70$ per panel for the wood and i believe 150$ each to remove old and install new. The thickness of the wood replacing, has to match the old that will be left on (NOT OPTIONAL).
Be prepared to need a few more panels than origional estimate because once they get the tiles off, they may find more. It's *much* cheaper to do it now if any are even slightly nominal.
I did not have the whole roof replaced because most of it was fine. I had about as many panels as you say redone, and all the roof tiles. You will need to have all the tiles done (at least, all the font at the same time, and all the back at the same time) or it will not look right. That 'look' may not matter to you much now but come resale time, it's critical. They need to age and weather down uniformly.
Get estimates and be sure they specify how much cost per panel including the wood and the labor. Check with local resources to make sure the company has been reliably in business doing roof work for at least 5 years, 10 is better. Make sure they fully insure their workers because if not, they can have one of them get hurt then the worker can sue YOU for letting them work uninsured (silly I know, but it happens and can cost you your home).
The cheapest bidder, is often cheapest because his work is cheapest. Now, I'll often go 'cheap' but the roof of your house isnt the right spot for that as it will cost you far more just a few years down the road to fix it.
Best thing is get at least 3 estimates in writing then see your local bank about a home improvement loan. They can often roll these in with your household payments to bring the monthly cost down to quite acceptable limits. That loan's interests BTW is tax deductable so say you pay 500$ in interest (wont be that much), your taxes will give you back about 100$ of it.
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I know some people who couldnt afford a new roof. so they picked the worst side and had 1/2 replaced the front. home looked good from street, street side was worse anyway
the back they gooed with roof tar, and some cheap mobile home roof coating. it looked bad but stopped most of the leaks.
2 or 3 years later they replaced the other side of the roof.
its something to consider when fiancially challenged.
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Thats close to what we did but the back was done first, as it was in worse shape, then later the front (which was overall in fairly good shape except a few spots).
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yeah it cuts cost by half.........
often the worst side is the one that gets the most sun... espically in sunny areas, like the desert south west.
when buying a new roof your better off to go to a white or light colored roof, shingles last longer summer roof temperatures lower. add ventilation too
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Pay now, or pay more later. In a re-roof, most of the cost is labor and tippage fees for the ripoff material. A typical ranch house roof takes 3-4 days tops. Once the crew and materials are on site and set up, the time difference from doing half or doing all is not that great, and the roll-off costs just as much to have spotted. It does NOT cut the costs by half, and will cost more than a complete re-roof once the other half gets done in a year or three.
If you don't have the cash on hand, but have some equity, go see your bank about a home improvement line of credit. For something like a roof, that helps preserve the value of the security on the main loan, they will be happy to work with you. 7-8 k is NOTHING to them compared to a 100k+ mortgage.
Besides, life is too short to mess with this more than once per house.
aem sends...
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Thank you all for your replies.
The roof is in good shape in all but the areas I've mentioned. In those areas, the damage was done by water coming in from the edge. The fascia was loose in these areas and let water in under the shingles.
The shingles are not the problem as the water attacked the wood under them, not the shingles.
The roofing guy who got up on the roof did a very thorough inspection and said that the damage in two of the three areas was minimal but would probably need an entire panel replaced on each. The third area was the worst and had obviously been leaking for years. The leak went from the top to the inside of a screened in porch area. In that area, he said the decking and some damaged supports would have to be replaced.
The guy was very professional, very thorough and took his time. He was also inspecting it with the possibility of replacing the entire roof.
As to the appearance, I couldn't care less. I'm already old and live on a fixed income and I'll die in this house. If the neighbors don't like the way it looks when I'm done, they can pay for better repairs. Since I'm paying for it, I'll do what I can with what I have.
My home loan is as high as it will ever be. I'm not adding anything to it. I can't afford to. I'll check with the bank to see what the replacement of the entire roof would cost me on a roll-in, but I can't afford much of a difference.
I'll have 5 different roofers come out and estimate the job with no removal of debris. I can do that. I'm old and slow, but I can pick up the trash and stack it. Then I can put out a couple of sacks a week until it's gone.
My property is fenced with a 8 foot privacy fence and is gated with the same. No one can see anything below the roof.
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try www.therooftech.com
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