color of exterior sealer


I've been refinishing exterior wood with Thompson's water seal. I had 2 different methods for preparation:
1) Where I could remove the wood, I sanded it down to adios the grayed wood.
2) On the unremovable gate, I used a mixture of tri-sodium phosphate and bleach to remove as much gray as possible.
After application, the gate is markedly lighter than the rest of it. It seems to my eye that I could add a red stain and that might match.
Any ideas on how to proceed?
--
Uno

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On 7/29/2010 3:08 PM, Uno wrote:

I use stain containing seals. Thompson's is not that great as water repellent is lost in a year, but color will remain.
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Frank wrote:

I guess I wonder what "contains" what.
Can one add stain to a sealant solution?
Can one add sealant to a stain solution?
--
Uno

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On 7/29/2010 10:01 PM, Uno wrote:

Thompson's water seal can come with stain or can be clear.
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Thompson's water seal is crap. Just about everyone in the product evaluation business says so. Any clear sealer is the least effective and even the best ones only last a few years. Semitransparent is a good compromise between longevity and something that still lets you have that wood grain look. It will last 2 to 3 times longer than a clear sealer. Opaque will easily last the longest but few people like the visual results on decks. I alway use semi on all our decks.
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Amen to that. California where I lived banned it years ago, along with other good products (that are bad for the environment, one assumes?). Example below: OT blast, not about water seal:
I used to repaint my concrete front porch every year. Suddenly the oil-based paint I used to apply is unavailable. I had to buy an interim product for conditioning the floor to accept the NEW "acceptable" product. So two coats, a LOT of hassle moving heavy planters, much time lost, a LOT of hassle.

I gave up and just painted the damn deck. Not as nice, of course, but less hassle, esp since it's in back and not used for entertainment anyway.
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I find simply scrubbing with water and a stiff brush works excellently to return PT wood to like-new green. That gray is not the wood aging or fading, it's just atmospheric dirt on the surface.
Stain is probably the best approach, but you might have to apply two coats to the lighter areas.
--
Tegger

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Uno wrote:

Just wait, it will darken all by itself.
--

dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

No, it won't. What I've treated has gotten lighter as it has dried.
I wonder if our differences in region matter here. I assume that the OH in your nym means you hail from Ohio, where I grew up. Things don't rot around here the way the way they do there. It's taken a lot of effort for me to retool to this environment, where you're more likely to be working on a swamp cooler than anything else. (The 1/4" compression that feeds these on flat roofs is one of the most fallible building systems I've ever seen. (=job security for handymen))
I also got to take a crack at you for Boehner. Might we Ohioans not have a predilection for orange and red? My fighting falcons of BGSU were orange and brown, the Buckeyes of course are red, and you guys send an oompa loompa to stop reform in Washington.
There's a whole half-aisle full of exterior wood treatments at home depot. I've got a redder and darker one that I've already used for this client. Can a person mix them?
--
Uno

"Like destroying an ant with a nuclear weapon." --John Boehner on
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Uno wrote:

Yes it will.
Light colored wood like the ubiqituous "white wood" used in construction will turn nut brown given time and exposure to UV. Then it turns grey.

Well, sure.

Nope. dadiOH = daddy-o = hip/hep.
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dadiOH
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