Clearing a clogged hot melt glue gun

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<stuff snipped>

Well, I'll admit that I was blinded by the neon "ON" lamp (that the gun *doesn't* have) and that's why I forget to flip the switch (that the gun *doesn't* have) when I got distracted by something that cause me to forget about something because of the not-so-early onset Alzheimer's which apparently I *do* have. So the answer to your question apparently is that I can't remember. It's also clear that things aren't going to get much better for me in the future so you'll have to gird your loins because you're likely to see more and not fewer such "what do I do now" questions from me.
As for things to come, your point is well-chosen concering a theoretical gun I might own in the theoretical future, but this thread is dealing with a very tangible dead glue gun I have in the very real present. Maybe we need to rename the group:
alt.home.repair.ethics.theoretical.futurist.physics.human.behavior.scold
to cover all the bases. And here I was, thinking you were one of the smart ones, Wayne. What sort of response did you expect?
If you were one of my junior officers and I was doing your OER, I would write: "Boatwright demonstrates an uncanny and immediate grasp of the obvious."
(-:
-- Bobby G.
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That's one way to kill a hot-melt glue gun. The glue cokes-up and creates a hard blockage.
--
Tegger

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Glue gun needs a laxative?
--
Christopher A. Young
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Only if you can get different temperature-grades of Ex-Lax...
--
Tegger

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a
Yes, when I bent some bare copper wire into a hook, I hauled out darker and darker material - from dark brown, still molten glue to tiny hard black particles that were too large to pass through the nozzle.
-- Bobby G.
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You're tempting me. That could work or it could blow back and cover my face with burning hot glue. At $10 for a new one (and like a dope, I forget to pick one up at the HW store I was at tonight) I think I am going to let sleeping dogs and clogged glue guns lie. Thanks for the input though. If I were on Mars and that was the only glue gun . . .
-- Bobby G.
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Nah. You need pure oxygen. You have a welder, don't you?
And a video camera. This one is definitely going to make the Darwin awards!
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I presume you plugged it back in, and PULLED on the glue stick? I wonder what solven softens the glue. I'd not suggest to soak the glue gun in gasoline, and then plug it in. The glue might be too soft.
--
Christopher A. Young
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Not a great idea. It's not the glue itself, but the hard coke that's formed in the nozzle area when the gun's left on too long without glue-flow.
Another form of damage is "backmelt", which occurs when an active gun is left on its side for too long. That damage can occasionally be corrected by drilling-out the backmelted glue.
--
Tegger

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formed
by
Yep. You can only draw so much of it out through the feed tube. At $10, it's going get a cordectomy and then a trip to the garbage can. There's not much to salvage except the cord. I tried to recover it for the educational value. I've learned all I think I am going to learn from anally probing a glue gun with a bent wire. (0:
-- Bobby G.
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Follow-up:
Bought 2 Surebonder CL800 cordless (sort of) glue guns to replace the failed Stanley. The Surebonder is a FAR superior unit. It not only has a neon ON indicator, but an ON/OFF switch, a rubber insulated nose to ostensibly cut down on burns, a base that plugs into the wall (with a little silicone drip pad) which the glue gun plugs into to make it portable and a built-in fold down stand.
I've got in plugged into a huge Gralab darkroom time (looking for something much smaller that would allow me to easily set a 10 to 60 minute ON time) so that it can't easily be left on for a week like the Stanley. The connection between the gun and the base is a little twitchy, but that's good because unless you wiggle it just right, the gun won't make an electrical connection and will shut down. As some of you might remember, that's a minus for people with good memories but a plus for me.
Also has a built in fuse (or so says the advert on the package) and large "wings" on either side of the glue entry hole so that if the glue backs up when pushing the trigger it spills out onto the wings and not directly onto your hands as the Stanley and a few other glue guns do. The only downsides so far is that the base is so long that the whole assembly no longer fits on the shelf above the workbench and the gun tends to "run on" meaning that you have to be careful where you point it after gluing something because there's always a little extra flow leaking out of the nozzle. The trigger lever/pump is larger than most and that gives extra leverage to pump the glue through. Lacks the dual temperature switch of the Stanley, but since I never used it, I don't miss.
Tried to recover the line cord and strain relief on the Stanley but one screw out of the six holding it together is a triangular anti-tamper screw and I can't seem to locate my special set of oddball bits.
-- Bobby G.

a
glue
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-snip-

I always keep one of these in my 'electrical stuff' drawer. About $5 & handy as all get-out. http://www.harborfreight.com/lamp-and-appliance-timer-40148.html
I set it to however long I want & just spin the dial to turn things on/off.
I've also got one on my $15 Mr. Coffee so coffee is done when I get up. Another on the grow-lights. . .
Jim
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wrote:

something
so
Thanks! I'll look into it. I've got a trip scheduled to the local HF so I'll take a look. I think what I will end up doing is using a Lutron switch that has four pushbuttons that I saw the other day. 1 button gives 30 minutes, the next 1 hour, the third two hours and the fourth 4 hours. If I have to remember to spin a dial, well, we'll be back to coked up glue again. (-: Allelectronics sells Mr. Coffee timers for a little less than a whole new coffeepot. The nice thing about the Gralab is that you just push the minute indicator once to get it off zero and it counts down and shuts off from whatever minute setting you had pushed it to. Very easy but very big. About 10" by 10" by 3" deep. Something smaller is definitely called for and there has to be a similar, smaller timer out there somewhere where you just twist it to the number of minutes you want it on, and it does the rest. Now that I think about it, I know exactly what I need and where to get it. A sleep timer for TV's and other appliances with a simple twist dial like my very old Litton microwave oven. Good work!
-- Bobby G.
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Get rid of it.
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wrote:

something
so
FWIW, I ordered this timer
(Amazon.com product link shortened) />/
to mount on the workbench in a duplex outlet so that when I use the glue gun, I have to twist it on to a time up to 1 hour. This most closely simulates the action of the Gralab darkroom timer in that it always shuts off without my having to remember anything. If anyone knows of a similar twist timer that's self-contained (not needing mounting in a electrical box but) with a two pronged outlet outlet on the side or the bottom, that would be better (read: takes less space, takes less work to implement). I realized something interesting looking at the specs. If someone wanted to use these to control something like an outside light it seems that the spring-powered twist timers don't require a neutral at the switchbox (lack of a neutral at the switch is quite a common occurrence) and thus present fewer problems than the electrically powered clock versions.
Thanks for your input!
-- Bobby G.
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But surely you can locate an old screwdriver of some sort... then apply the effects of a bench-grinder and a hand-file.
I make all sort of odd tools this way, thus successfully circumventing whatever limit the fastener's maker intended.
--
Tegger

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the
Thanks. I could, but it's a dead glue gun, and I don't *really* need another line cord but it makes me feel better to recover at least *something* from anything I trash. For now, it's sitting in my "Salvage" box so that when I do find my set of bits that has a triangular shaped one I can grab the cord and get a look at the heating element. I am actually glad it failed because the replacement Surebonder guns are far, far superior and less expensive then the damned burned up Stanley.
I am familiar with making tools. I just had to make a special jig to unscrew two halves of a stuck CCTV camera - a piece of shelving with finishing nails set so that they fit into the tiny holes in the base. Fortunately, I've watched Tom Silva on TOH make templates, jigs and whatnot so often, it was a walk in the park. I put some paper over the base of the unit, used a pencil sideways to shade out the hole location. I transferred the paper to the wood, put nails through the holes and voila, now I had a wrench that would give me the torque needed to separate the two halves.
Thanks for your input!
-- Bobby G.
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On 11/12/2010 4:51 AM, Robert Green wrote: (snip)

Chuckle. I resemble that remark. My relatives and co-workers keep threatening to do a OCD/hoarding intervention on my sorry posterior. Piles of good-but-will-never-be-used-again parts sort of run in my family.
--
aem sends...

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"Salvage"
You too? I keep trying to explain that in order to be able to fix broken things, you need broken things around to take parts from. And tools. Lots and lots of tools. Even one-shot tools that were still cheaper to buy than to take the car to a dealer. Of course, when the special tools and manuals are still around and the car isn't, that's a harder (but not impossible!) argument to make.
I, too, have been threatened with an intervention, but I think there's a difference between keeping around stuff that you own that's gone south and actively looking for more string for your 9' diameter string ball. Or 6' stacks of newspaper. Or anything that you drive by on the street that you see on trash day and bring home with you. There really are some bright lines between hoarding and just keeping stuff around. At least that's what I tell my wife.
I really messed up this year because she was working overseas on an assigment and had to come home early before I could corral all my stuff that had spread out into her areas in the house. Breaker panel cover off, dryer spread out all over the basement floor, PC's in the sewing room. I'm still hearing about it. One thing I've cut out is web-based experiments where X says this, Y says that and I decide it's easy enough to measure if I design the right experiment. Dropping that meant far less wire nests around.
Oh, I had to get a separate little fridge for my storage of batteries, chemicals, and what not. I can't remember what it was that I was cooling, but it was not something with very high SAF (spouse approval factor). Oh, I remember, I was testing windshield washer mix freeze points. (-: SAF so low it went negative.
-- Bobby G.
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Robert Green wrote:

Keep something for 7 years and you will find a use for it. Throw it away and well, you know..........
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