Well, I'll admit that I was blinded by the neon "ON" lamp (that the gun
*doesn't* have) and that's why I forget to flip the switch (that the gun
*doesn't* have) when I got distracted by something that cause me to forget
about something because of the not-so-early onset Alzheimer's which
apparently I *do* have. So the answer to your question apparently is that I
can't remember. It's also clear that things aren't going to get much better
for me in the future so you'll have to gird your loins because you're likely
to see more and not fewer such "what do I do now" questions from me.
As for things to come, your point is well-chosen concering a theoretical gun
I might own in the theoretical future, but this thread is dealing with a
very tangible dead glue gun I have in the very real present. Maybe we need
to rename the group:
to cover all the bases. And here I was, thinking you were one of the smart
ones, Wayne. What sort of response did you expect?
If you were one of my junior officers and I was doing your OER, I would
write: "Boatwright demonstrates an uncanny and immediate grasp of the
Yes, when I bent some bare copper wire into a hook, I hauled out darker and
darker material - from dark brown, still molten glue to tiny hard black
particles that were too large to pass through the nozzle.
You're tempting me. That could work or it could blow back and cover my face
with burning hot glue. At $10 for a new one (and like a dope, I forget to
pick one up at the HW store I was at tonight) I think I am going to let
sleeping dogs and clogged glue guns lie. Thanks for the input though. If
I were on Mars and that was the only glue gun . . .
I presume you plugged it back in, and PULLED on the glue stick? I
wonder what solven softens the glue. I'd not suggest to soak the glue
gun in gasoline, and then plug it in. The glue might be too soft.
Not a great idea. It's not the glue itself, but the hard coke that's formed
in the nozzle area when the gun's left on too long without glue-flow.
Another form of damage is "backmelt", which occurs when an active gun is
left on its side for too long. That damage can occasionally be corrected by
drilling-out the backmelted glue.
Yep. You can only draw so much of it out through the feed tube. At $10,
it's going get a cordectomy and then a trip to the garbage can. There's not
much to salvage except the cord. I tried to recover it for the educational
value. I've learned all I think I am going to learn from anally probing a
glue gun with a bent wire. (0:
Bought 2 Surebonder CL800 cordless (sort of) glue guns to replace the failed
Stanley. The Surebonder is a FAR superior unit. It not only has a neon ON
indicator, but an ON/OFF switch, a rubber insulated nose to ostensibly cut
down on burns, a base that plugs into the wall (with a little silicone drip
pad) which the glue gun plugs into to make it portable and a built-in fold
I've got in plugged into a huge Gralab darkroom time (looking for something
much smaller that would allow me to easily set a 10 to 60 minute ON time) so
that it can't easily be left on for a week like the Stanley. The connection
between the gun and the base is a little twitchy, but that's good because
unless you wiggle it just right, the gun won't make an electrical connection
and will shut down. As some of you might remember, that's a minus for
people with good memories but a plus for me.
Also has a built in fuse (or so says the advert on the package) and large
"wings" on either side of the glue entry hole so that if the glue backs up
when pushing the trigger it spills out onto the wings and not directly onto
your hands as the Stanley and a few other glue guns do. The only downsides
so far is that the base is so long that the whole assembly no longer fits on
the shelf above the workbench and the gun tends to "run on" meaning that you
have to be careful where you point it after gluing something because there's
always a little extra flow leaking out of the nozzle. The trigger
lever/pump is larger than most and that gives extra leverage to pump the
glue through. Lacks the dual temperature switch of the Stanley, but since I
never used it, I don't miss.
Tried to recover the line cord and strain relief on the Stanley but one
screw out of the six holding it together is a triangular anti-tamper screw
and I can't seem to locate my special set of oddball bits.
I always keep one of these in my 'electrical stuff' drawer. About
$5 & handy as all get-out.
I set it to however long I want & just spin the dial to turn things
I've also got one on my $15 Mr. Coffee so coffee is done when I get
up. Another on the grow-lights. . .
Thanks! I'll look into it. I've got a trip scheduled to the local HF so
I'll take a look. I think what I will end up doing is using a Lutron switch
that has four pushbuttons that I saw the other day. 1 button gives 30
minutes, the next 1 hour, the third two hours and the fourth 4 hours. If I
have to remember to spin a dial, well, we'll be back to coked up glue again.
(-: Allelectronics sells Mr. Coffee timers for a little less than a whole
new coffeepot. The nice thing about the Gralab is that you just push the
minute indicator once to get it off zero and it counts down and shuts off
from whatever minute setting you had pushed it to. Very easy but very big.
About 10" by 10" by 3" deep. Something smaller is definitely called for and
there has to be a similar, smaller timer out there somewhere where you just
twist it to the number of minutes you want it on, and it does the rest. Now
that I think about it, I know exactly what I need and where to get it. A
sleep timer for TV's and other appliances with a simple twist dial like my
very old Litton microwave oven. Good work!
FWIW, I ordered this timer
(Amazon.com product link shortened) />/
to mount on the workbench in a duplex outlet so that when I use the glue
gun, I have to twist it on to a time up to 1 hour. This most closely
simulates the action of the Gralab darkroom timer in that it always shuts
off without my having to remember anything. If anyone knows of a similar
twist timer that's self-contained (not needing mounting in a electrical box
but) with a two pronged outlet outlet on the side or the bottom, that would
be better (read: takes less space, takes less work to implement). I
realized something interesting looking at the specs. If someone wanted to
use these to control something like an outside light it seems that the
spring-powered twist timers don't require a neutral at the switchbox (lack
of a neutral at the switch is quite a common occurrence) and thus present
fewer problems than the electrically powered clock versions.
Thanks for your input!
But surely you can locate an old screwdriver of some sort... then apply the
effects of a bench-grinder and a hand-file.
I make all sort of odd tools this way, thus successfully circumventing
whatever limit the fastener's maker intended.
Thanks. I could, but it's a dead glue gun, and I don't *really* need
another line cord but it makes me feel better to recover at least
*something* from anything I trash. For now, it's sitting in my "Salvage"
box so that when I do find my set of bits that has a triangular shaped one I
can grab the cord and get a look at the heating element. I am actually glad
it failed because the replacement Surebonder guns are far, far superior and
less expensive then the damned burned up Stanley.
I am familiar with making tools. I just had to make a special jig to
unscrew two halves of a stuck CCTV camera - a piece of shelving with
finishing nails set so that they fit into the tiny holes in the base.
Fortunately, I've watched Tom Silva on TOH make templates, jigs and whatnot
so often, it was a walk in the park. I put some paper over the base of the
unit, used a pencil sideways to shade out the hole location. I transferred
the paper to the wood, put nails through the holes and voila, now I had a
wrench that would give me the torque needed to separate the two halves.
Thanks for your input!
Chuckle. I resemble that remark. My relatives and co-workers keep
threatening to do a OCD/hoarding intervention on my sorry posterior.
Piles of good-but-will-never-be-used-again parts sort of run in my family.
You too? I keep trying to explain that in order to be able to fix broken
things, you need broken things around to take parts from. And tools. Lots
and lots of tools. Even one-shot tools that were still cheaper to buy than
to take the car to a dealer. Of course, when the special tools and manuals
are still around and the car isn't, that's a harder (but not impossible!)
argument to make.
I, too, have been threatened with an intervention, but I think there's a
difference between keeping around stuff that you own that's gone south and
actively looking for more string for your 9' diameter string ball. Or 6'
stacks of newspaper. Or anything that you drive by on the street that you
see on trash day and bring home with you. There really are some bright
lines between hoarding and just keeping stuff around. At least that's what
I tell my wife.
I really messed up this year because she was working overseas on an
assigment and had to come home early before I could corral all my stuff
that had spread out into her areas in the house. Breaker panel cover off,
dryer spread out all over the basement floor, PC's in the sewing room. I'm
still hearing about it. One thing I've cut out is web-based experiments
where X says this, Y says that and I decide it's easy enough to measure if I
design the right experiment. Dropping that meant far less wire nests
Oh, I had to get a separate little fridge for my storage of batteries,
chemicals, and what not. I can't remember what it was that I was cooling,
but it was not something with very high SAF (spouse approval factor). Oh, I
remember, I was testing windshield washer mix freeze points. (-: SAF so
low it went negative.
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