Circular saw problem? ? ?

Recently I bought a new Black and Decker circular saw, a low-end model.

From the start, the blade seemed to bind severely and the wood smoked as if it were going to burst into flames. The saw won't even cut a 1 x 3 board without this happening, and it won't cut heavy boards at all.

I've examined my installation of the blade closely, even installed another blade, but the binding and smoking continues.

Is this likely a defective product, or am I doing something wrong in installation?

Reply to
Ray Jenkins
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You didn't mount the blade backwards, did you?

Reply to
PhotoMan

That was going to be my question as well. I loaned my $200 Porter Cable saw to a co-worker. He called me stating that the saw was "smoking" the wood. I asked him (without trying to sound too smug) if the blade was installed correctly. He scoffed and quickly responded *YES*. The following Monday, he admitted the blade was on backwards. The blade (if holding the saw by the handle closest to you) should have the teeth curved upward to the bottom of the sole plate. This way the teeth cut up from the bottom of the wood. And don't feel badly if this was the case - I've been a custom furniture builder for over 20 years and I *still* double check the rotation. IIRC - B & D has a directional arrow on the blade guard. This will show you the blade rotation.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Mc Namara

And it's not an abrasive blade, but a proper toothed one?

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Sounds to me like you installed the blade backwards. Check the instructions in the owner's manual.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller

Of course it's defective. It's a Black & Decker.

IF the blade is on with teeth in the proper direction, It Could Be-->

*a bad arbor
  • a bent moter shaft
  • a loose blade
*a bent / warped blade
  • a Black & Decker tool
Reply to
Steve

I had a similar problem (though with a B&D 7.2v circular saw). I replaced the crap blade that came with it, with a carbide blade; it now works like a charm. Can't say I was happy with the price of the blade though.

If your blade isn't in backwards, you might want to try a carbide blade. Even if the saw turns out to be defective, you will appreciate the better blade.

Reply to
Wade Lippman

Read the manual again. If it looks like you've done everything correctly, take it back and get a different one.

Have a nice Labor Day weekend...

Trent

Proud member of the Roy Rogers fan club!

Reply to
Trent©

In my opinion, and I use tools a lot. BLack & Decker makes the best of the cheaper tools. Skil tools are complete garbage, and I wont even consider a no-name (import). I have always had pretty good luck with B&D. On the other hand, Skil makes the worst power tools I have ever used. In fact I bought a no-name electric drill for under $20, and found it was far superior to the $50 Skil drill I bought.

Reply to
me

My mitre saw was doing much the same. It was lugging and not cutting. I thought the motor was burning out and, since I was doing a big job, I went and bought a new one. I like taking broken things apart so I opened the "defective" saw. The only problem was a small chip of wood which had jammed between the safety guard and the blade. When I popped it out, the saw worked perfectly. So my daughter got a working 8 inch mitre saw and I got a new

10 inch one. ds
Reply to
D Smyth

I did take it back, and they are going to send me a new one.

Thanks.

Reply to
Ray Jenkins

Get your money back ... send a new one,? they are crap...... dont deal with it again

Reply to
mark Ransley

Out of curiousity...were you cutting freehand or against a guide. If against a guide, only a bit of misalignment of the sole plate to the blade can cause binding. Also, if the wood you're cutting is reaction wood, the gap behind the blade can close as you cut, effectively clamping a bit on the blade. pat

Reply to
patrick mitchel

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