Can we use water based finish on oil based finish for maintenance coats?

I am building a new house with 2500 sq-ft of hardwood floor. I plan on maintaining the floor with water based finish for recoating high traffic areas once a year or so.
Should I ask the builder to use water based finish for the original finish, or does it matter? If so, what brand should I specify?
If the builder uses an oil based finish, can I put additional coats of water based finish before moving in (after the builder's finish dries)? This will be the last opportunity for coating the floor without having to move furniture, worrying about kids running around, etc. How many additional coats is reasonable? I am thinking of 5 additional coats on top of however many standard coats the builder uses. Is this too many?
I don't want to ask the builder for additional coats, as he seems to have add hefty margins for this kind of requests.
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Oil ambers - yellows and darkens water base doesnt. I put 5 coats then a few years later 2 more. I do not know what brand is best/
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

If you are keeping the wood natural and don't want it to yellow, have the builder put down a water based finish. Any oil based polyurethane is going to yellow/amber over time. As far as which brand to use, I would highly recommend Flecto's Varathane. It's expensive but worth it.
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Flecto makes flooring finish and this is presumed what you meant. I find that oil based finishes tend to amber the wood at application with further ambering over time. Bonakemi, or a name similar to that, has been highly touted for floors. WB can be applied over oil based IF the oil based is fully cured. Scuff sanding is required with any polyu finish between coats.
On 24 Apr 2004 13:59:38 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comremove (CAStinneford) wrote:

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Definately use a water based finish for the floor. It matters because you can not use a water based coat over an oil based coat.

Typically for hardwood floor installation, 3 coats are standard and are plenty for normal traffic. Like I said before, make sure that who ever puts the first coats on, make sure to use a water based (acrylic) coat. There are many brands out there. My hardwood floor guy changes brands constantly so to recommend a particular brand would be outdated in a month <g>. There are many good brands out there. Just ask your local hardwood floor installer. Maybe someone here is a little more familiar with good brands. SH
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look into Bonakemi Traffic. it's used on gym floors.
dave
John Smith wrote:

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Thanks to all. Bonakemi Traffic looks really good, and has low VOC, too. How should I approach the builder on this? I think that he may consider this a strange request. It is important enough for me to pay premium if necessary, although it looks like the Bonakemi is already more expensive on material cost basis.
How much extra should I expect to pay over regular finish for a 2500 sq-ft? I am thinking of asking for a 4 coat treatment.
Thanks.

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Traffic is used in residential on occasion, John. I used Mega (no catalyst) and did one sealer coat and 3 coats of Mega. It looks really nice. Since a seal coat "counts" I think you'll find the builder will suggest 3 coats of Traffic as being sufficient. Mark from Los Gatos is a pro on this stuff. Hopefully he'll see this thread and give his opinion.
dave
John Smith wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (John Smith) writes:

Why would you need to recoat every year? Have everyone remove their shoes when they come into the house if need be. Any carpeted areas will last longer too with no shoes. Recoating the floor every year would be a major pain, especially if you have an active family.
The reason I choose water-based over oil-based for my floor is because oil-based will yellow over time.
Brian Elfert
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I chose WB because oil poly reeks! Makes my nasal passages burn. Plus the WB dries quickly.
dave
Brian Elfert wrote:

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