I need to attach a rail to my 92 year old Mom's front steps. I am using a
1 inch galvanized pipe, 60 inches long, with 90 degree elbows on each end,
and 1 inch floor flanges for attachment at each end.
The pillars that I will attach to are some kind of mortar or concrete. It
is 50 year old construction, but it is something that was obviously formed
and poured. It looks quite solid. I just don't know if it would be
called mortar or concrete...... again, it is solid, not just concrete
I need to know the best method of attachment. I am thinking of either using
tapcon screws, or lag bolts of some sort, using a lag shield to anchor the
lag bolts. Whatever I use, I will be able to attach 4 bolts or screws, as
the floor flanges have 4 drilled holes.
Any ideas, or comments ??
Did something like that a decade ago, and it is still in A1 shape.
Bought some stainless steel threaded rod, 5/16" IIRC. Used a 3/8"
carbide masonry bit and carefully drilled the holes about 3" deep.
Filled the holes with1:1 slow cure epoxy and inserted 5" pieces of the
rod. Next day, finished installing flange, trimmed off excess rod and
painted it black. These days, it might be better to use a Harbor
Freight diamond bit if there could be unusual hard aggregate in the
cement/concrete. Might work for you.
Simpson makes wonderful epoxy. They make a heavy bodied one....
You can install just about anything in concrete with this epoxy.
(threaded rod, anchor bolts, carriage bolts pushed through a bracket and
then into the concrete drilled location........)
It is used for earthquake retrofit.....It is a strong attachment....
Tapcons are good, but depends on the load. I used a ton of sleeve anchors
to put dumpster gates back on grouted block when the garbage men or the wind
took them off. They have a sliding sleeve for most of their length, not the
wedge type that are meant for hard concrete. They are relatively
inexpensive, particularly when bought at a fastener house, and by the box.
Sleeve anchors can be bought in all lengths, so you can go far in lessening
the tendency for the outside of the material to fracture, as when you are
drilling into block and want to hit the mortar rather than the skin of the
There are tricks to them, alignment mostly, and putting the nut on the shaft
to tap them in, so you don't booger the threads. Set your depth 1/2? longer
than the shaft so you can put if in as far as you can so that when you
tighten, the shaft isn't sticking out very much past the nut.
I have used a lot of them, and they work good.
The problem you will have is that the opening for the screws in the floor
flange are small so any anchor that would work with them and go directly
into the concrete will be weak.
What you might want to do if the post is large enough is get a hammer drill
and bit to drill some half inch holes then attach a mounting plate made of
presure treated lumber to the concrete by using threaded rod and epoxy
specifically made for anchoring bolts. I would use 4 bolts / threaded rods
and washers with nuts .. then you can mount a hand railing.
Galvanized pipe is nice in some ways because it is strong, inexpensive and
will inhibit rust but I would spend the extra cash and look into a real
railing... after all she is 92 and will probably put a lot of her weight on
it and... she is your mom :o)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.