Air Conditioning for Stand-Alone Garage

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I’m going to buy a house next month with a separate garage that I w ant to make into a workshop and music practice area. The building inspecti ons were yesterday and there’s no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. Do you agree this should be done? What would be a typical cost for that?
I measured the dimensions of the inside of the garage and it is 4400 cu fee t. This Sunday, the wether forecast is for clear skies and 95 degrees. If I use that for the load, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it co mfortable in a reasonable amount of time inside the garage? Is that how I should size the system?
The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?
The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduc ed operating costs compared to a window unit? What would you do if you wan ted to make a garage comfortable year round?
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(This is the fourth time I've tried to post this message so if older ones a ppear at some point, please respond to THIS thread and I'll delete the othe rs.)
I’m going to buy a house next month with a separate garage that I w ant to make into a workshop and music practice area. The building inspecti ons were yesterday and there’s no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. What do you think? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?
I measured the dimensions of the inside of the garage and it is 4400 cu fee t. This Sunday, the weather forecast is for clear skies and 95 degrees. I f I use that for the load, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it c omfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?
The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?
The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduc ed operating costs compared to a window unit?
Any other thoughts on this project?
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On 6/24/2016 11:29 AM, Bob Simon wrote:

OK, here is your response. Now you can stop posting. I don't have an answer to your questions, but you can stop posting the same item now.
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On 6/24/2016 2:29 PM, Bob Simon wrote:

The insullation is a very good idea. Also weatherstripping. If you don't plan to use the garage door, you may consider insulation and vapor barrier there also.
How many amps of 120 VAC do you have?
The energy efficiency is based (in large part) on what type of compressor. Many window units have rotary (good) compressor, and many split systems have piston type (bad) compressors.
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(This is the fifth time I’ve tried to upload this message so if the others show up eventually, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others.)
I’m going to buy a house next month with a separate garage that I w ant to make into a workshop and music practice area. The building inspecti ons were yesterday and there’s no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typicall y cost?
I measured the dimensions of the inside of the garage and it is 4400 cu fee t. This Sunday, the weather forecast is for clear skies and 95 degrees. I f I use that for the load, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it c omfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?
The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?
The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduc ed operating costs compared to a window unit?
Any other thoughts on this project?
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(I’ve tried to upload this message several times so if any others a ppear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others.)
I’m going to buy a house next month with a separate garage that I w ant to make into a workshop and music practice area. The building inspecti ons were yesterday. There’s no insulation in the garage attic so t he guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it w ould be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. D o you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?
I measured the dimensions of the inside of the garage and it is 4400 cu fee t. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are need ed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?
The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?
The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduc ed operating costs compared to a window unit?
Any other thoughts on this project?
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On 6/24/2016 4:46 PM, Bob Simon wrote:

I think the insullation is a good idea. Also, if there is a garage door (not used for cars) then insulation and vapor barrier is a good idea.
How many amps of 120 VAC do you have?
Are you willing to consider a window AC? I would.
Efficiency is based, in large part, on type of compressor. Window unit may be better.
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(I’ve tried to upload this message several times so if any others a ppear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others.)
I’m going to buy a house next month with a separate garage that I w ant to make into a workshop and music practice area. The building inspecti ons were yesterday. There’s no insulation in the garage attic so t he guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it w ould be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. D o you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?
The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees out side, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?
The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?
The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduc ed operating costs compared to a window unit?
Any other thoughts on this project?
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On 6/24/2016 3:50 PM, Bob Simon wrote:

You've received a lot of input from the group with not so much input from you<g>
That said, the validity of the "solutions" is wholly dependent upon the information that YOU need to provide. i.e. insulation factor, ampacity of the circuits to the garage, etc.
That said:
1) If you want it as a shop and music practice area, you likely really will need AC
2) The shop component, if you're serious about it, should have 220V available. This also expands your cooling and (if needed) heating solutions.
3) Insulation is cheap and worthwhile from several aspects. It will help sound proof the garage something that may not be critical depending on the neighbors but OTOH could be a real "saver."
4) Consider getting out the Sawz-all and frame in a space in a solid wall to install that room sized AC unit. Almost every unit I've seen can be disassembled to the point where the outer casing can be used as a thru the wall sleeve, mounted security and then the guts reinstalled for a more finished look. I've done this in several places including my own shop which is in a large detached garage in the Chicago suburbs. Also have an electric ceiling mount heater.
5) Doing the wall mount (or window mount) you take care of the condensate issue. It simply drains out the back/bottom of the properly installed unit onto the ground beneath.
6) important to consider sizing. Bigger is not necessarily better. You need to calculate your cooling load based upon the average heat, humidity and insulation factors for your specific application. If you get a unit that is too big, you will achieve a rather quick cool down which might seem to be just what you want. Unfortunately, the A/C will not run long enough to dehumidify the air in the shop so you wind up "cold and clammy" (sort of) and your tools will suffer for it as well.
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On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 7:42:03 AM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Sound proofing IS a good idea. Thanks!

I like your framing suggestion a lot too. The wall is going to be opened up in several places anyway to blow in foam.

Thanks for your thoughts. This kind of diversity of ideas is exactly why I come here for advice.
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"Bob Simon" wrote in message
On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 7:42:03 AM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Sound proofing IS a good idea. Thanks!

I like your framing suggestion a lot too. The wall is going to be opened up in several places anyway to blow in foam.

Thanks for your thoughts. This kind of diversity of ideas is exactly why I come here for advice.
Do not install Friedrich are you will be sorry!
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On 6/26/2016 2:59 PM, Tony944 wrote:

Why? I thought that years ago they were top quality. They were the most expensive too.
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On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 12:57:09 PM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
Another thing no one mentioned is if you have the location for two, you may be better off with two 6K window units than one 12K. If you just need to take humidity out, running one would probably do a better job. And having cold air come out from two locations would distribute it better.
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You need cooling and humidity reduction in that area and you need to consid er both.
Yes, you'll need insulation and vapor barrier, and have to do something abo ut the overhead door. They rarely seal well at the base.
But consider something else. Shop requirements and music room requirements are not the same. A window knocker is loud and annoying, but you won't he ar it when your saw or router is running. On the other hand, doing some re cording or even practicing with the compressor in the same room is a no-go. I don't even like fluorescents buzzing.
Lighting is another problem. For either shop work or music, you want lots of light and then a little bit more. Most garages are just for storage and a single overhead fixture is plenty, so you'll have to add.
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(I’ve tried to upload this message several times so if any others a ppear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others.)
I’m going to buy a house next month and the building inspections we re yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a worksho p and music practice area. There’s no insulation in the garage a ttic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would h ave to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would t ypically cost?
The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees out side, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?
The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?
The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduc ed operating costs compared to a window unit?
Any other thoughts on this project?
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On 6/24/2016 4:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:

I've tried to reply to your message several times. Please let me know if this comes through.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 7:17:02 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

rs appear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others .)

s were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a wor kshop and music practice area. There’s no insulation in the gara ge attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes wou ld have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering d oing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this wou ld typically cost?

outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

rs, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in r educed operating costs compared to a window unit?


I got your three replies. Thanks for your recommendation to insulate. The re is a big door next to the alley for cars plus a regular-size door for pe ople on the house side. Since we're not going to use the garage for cars, I think we'll rarely open the big door.
I don't know how many amps go to the garage. One or more 15A circuits from the main panel go to another box. From there the wires go via buried cond uit to the garage. If I need more power, I presume the additional wires ca n be pulled through the existing conduit.
All my old messages finally made it. Some more may still arrive later. It 's odd that it took 24 hours for the first one to show up.
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On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 8:53:23 PM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:

hers appear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the othe rs.)

ons were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a w orkshop and music practice area. There’s no insulation in the ga rage attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either . He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes w ould have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this w ould typically cost?

es outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable insi de the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

ears, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

f

here is a big door next to the alley for cars plus a regular-size door for people on the house side. Since we're not going to use the garage for cars , I think we'll rarely open the big door.

om the main panel go to another box. From there the wires go via buried co nduit to the garage. If I need more power, I presume the additional wires can be pulled through the existing conduit.

It's odd that it took 24 hours for the first one to show up.
Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it. Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?
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On 6/24/2016 9:01 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart
Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you have in the workshop.
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On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 9:44:33 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

just buy a goodman furnace withAC
they work excellent, are very affordable.
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