Advice requested Whirlpool Duet Sport Washing Machine "popped"

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Hi Guys,
Any washing machine experienced folks here?
Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".
It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the "Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally (it seems).
So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).
It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).
Any suggestions?
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On 4/24/2016 6:37 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Is the washer TOTALLY unresponsive (no lights at all)? Your comment that it "will turn off when unplugged" suggests there is *some* sign of life.
Can you get it into its built-in diagnostic (self-test) mode? From there, its easier to get an idea of what "popped" and your possible recourse. Check your user manual or google "Whirlpool Duet Sport Diagnostics"
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On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:09:11 -0700, Don Y wrote:

The lights look normal. There are indicator lights for lots of things (e.g., water temperature, rinse cycles, alarms, timers, etc., all of which seem to be normal).
The only thing is that the "Start" button does nothing. No sounds. No water. No spinning.
Also, the "Cancel" button doesn't cancel.

I don't know how, but I will download a manual to see what it can tell me. At this point, I'm only asking if anyone has experience with a similar circumstance, where a "popping" sound presaged the Start button not working.

I will open the back and see what I can find.

I am going to do that.
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On 4/24/2016 9:12 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

So, it's not completely dead (as you would expect if a "fuse was blown")

See below.

Chances are, some power semiconductor device expelled some "magic blue smoke".

Paraphrased from <http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Duet/Duet-Washer-Diagnostic-Tests.php : Duet Washer Diagnostic Test Mode
Your Duet washer needs to be in standby (Plugged in with all lights off)
Pick any three buttons on the control except power, start, or cancel.
Now press this button sequence RAPIDLY (within eight seconds) Button 1, Button 2, Button 3, Button 1, Button 2, Button 3, Button 1, Button 2, Button 3 You are pressing 9 buttons in 8 seconds so it needs to be pretty quick.)
If you've accessed the diagnostics, all the control lights will turn on and "888" will be displayed showing you all the time display lights are working. After a few seconds tall the washer's display lights will flash. If there are any saved error or fault codes the time display should now show the most recent error code.
[If this doesn't happen, try a different set of three buttons -- just in case one of the buttons happens to coincidentally be broken! I.e., instead of A, B and C, try A, B and D (in case C is broken); then, try A, C and D (in case B was broken); then B, C and D (in case A was broken)]
Remember which buttons you chose for #1, #2 and #3! You will be using them again to troubleshoot problems.
Note: If no buttons are pressed on the washer for 5 minutes the washer will exit the diagnostics mode.
Consult <http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Duet/Duet-Washer-Error-Codes.php for an explanation of error codes displayed.
The first URL also gives some "test procedures" you can do to "force" the washer to perform specific actions -- which you can then observe to give more clues as to likely problems.
One of the advantages of microprocessor controlled devices is that they can provide some assistance *before* calling a "paid professional".
Good luck!
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On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 22:19:45 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Bummer. Tried it many times. Nothing happens when I press any three buttons like that in succession three times.
Will dig in further ...
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On 4/24/2016 11:29 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter". Also note the serial numbers for which that document applies. There are probably different sequences required to activate these modes on different versions of the "same" product (model numbers and names are only loosely correlated).
Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed indicators) -- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of what you do?
I *think* the first thing that most front loaders do is try to lock the door after the cycle is commanded to begin. It's possible the door lock mechanism had/has a short and that let the magic blue smoke escape.
Unfortunately, if it took out the control board in the process (to the point where it is completely unresponsive even after cycling power), knowing where the short lies is probably small consolation. And, unless you can find and repair the short (or other failure), repairing/replacing the control board will just give you a repeat failure.
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:09:48 -0700, Don Y wrote:

I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice) diagnostic-test instructions are for a newer model, as mine is a Duet Sport model number WFW8410SW.
I didn't have this information before, because the door won't open (which is where the sticker is); but I checked my records and my duet is the "8410", which doesn't have the blueish display screen that you see in the ones described at that (otherwise nice) web page.

All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights up normally when I press the buttons. The only things that don't work, really, is that the door is locked and the washer won't start when I press the Start button.
All indicators respond normally otherwise.
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On 4/25/2016 11:45 AM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Ah. Try:
- select a button - press (and hold) it for 4 seconds - release for 4 seconds - press (and hold) it for 4 seconds - release for 4 seconds - press (and hold) it for 4 seconds
<http://appliantology.org/gallery/image/512-whirlpool-duet-sport-washer-manual-diagnostic-mode/ indicates a few more presses but I think you will see results after the first three.

If the door won't open, then the lock mechanism is either broken or the actuator to unlock it is not functioning. If the door won't *lock*, then the washer won't start because there is a switch in the mechanism that informs the washer that the door is, in fact, locked. (but, the washer should complain that it can't lock the door/"door open")

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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:14:52 -0700, Don Y wrote:

That did the trick. F28. Communications Error. No other errors.
http://g31i.imgup.net/f28d702.gif
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On Wed, 27 Apr 2016 17:58:56 +0000, Zak W wrote:

Yea, we formed a neighbourhood committee to inspect and periodically check on the water supply up here. After about six months of pumping, the one gray well turned out to be crystalline clear (for now), so, that's been fixed.
Meanwhile, we formed a mesh Internet network, and we cleaned entire hillsides of poison oak (see picture I just posted below from that last endeavor):

We cleaned up the hillside of old washing machines and tires too!
And, you should see many thousands of Scotch Broom we pulled out after the last good drenching (the tap roots only come out when the ground is literally soaked).
So, um, yeah. We've been busy in the boonies of Silicon Valley.
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On Wed, 27 Apr 2016 18:38:53 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico

Well done. It's good to see that kind of community-based planning, cooperation and action.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
  Click to see the full signature.
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On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 06:54:05 -0500, CRNG wrote:

Thanks for noticing that we all work together (as Jeff Liebermann would know, we stick together in the mountains).
I called the "circuit board medics" at 800-547-2049 last week who said that an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport washer is almost always a bad motor control board.
This was before I had taken out the MCU and found it burnt, so, they're right. In hindsight, if I had only known that, I wouldn't have removed both the CCU and the EMI filter (I broke a wire on the CCU trying to get it out, for example).
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg
So, to help others. 1. If you get an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport WFW8410SW, it's almost always the motor control board. 2. Wiggle the blue wires on both the motor control board and the CCU, but if that doesn't solve the problem, then you have to remove the motor control board. 3. To remove the MCU, you have to remove the 16 quarter-inch hexhead screws holding the back plate in place. 4. It's advised to also remove the lower cross brace (two more screws). 5. Some people remove the top of the shock absorber but I left it in place. 6. Then you have to cut or dig out the 4 tie wraps holding the harnesses to the MCU plastic covering. 7. Then you have to be a genius or a magician to put a screwdriver under the MCU white box and pry it up and then slide the MCU toward the front of the washer, to get it to release its grip. 8. Then you remove all the wire connections & pull it out from the bottom of the Whirlpool duet sport washer. 9. Once you pry open (and probably break) the crappy plastic (they really use really really really brittle plastic), you will see the scorch marks as shown below.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg
At this point, you put the MMU back in its plastic case, and you remove the CCU (if desired) and you ship both of those boards to the rebuilders at "Circuit Board Medics" 800-547-2049x3) at your cost. They told me that USPS is the least responsible, so use UPS or Fedex.
Exclusive of your costs to ship to them, the charges are: A. Exchange rebuilt MCU = $175 ($160 + $15 shipping + $100 core charge) B. Rebuild your MCU = $145 ($130 + $15 return shipping)
They give you a 1-year warranty and they will test both boards for free, just in case my totally burned out MCU isn't the real problem.
http://i.cubeupload.com/xRnjw9.jpg
Here's a picture of my CCU, which seems to be in OK shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zBAmq5.jpg
Unless I find a better deal than ~$150, I think I'll have them rebuild my board. A brand-new washer is only four or five times that at about $600 to $800, so, it's an expensive enough repair to wonder if I should just buy a new washer instead.
Nonetheless, I don't have much money lately (being retired is costing me more than I thought, especially with two families living under the same household now, with my sister and her kids living with me), so, I will just look to see if I can find a new board for around that same price.
Otherwise, I'd suggest the rebuilders as they seem competent.
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Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...

Glad to hear the gray well water cleaned up. Was the real problem ever determined?
--
Tekkie

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On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 14:39:57 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

We can never be sure, but what we did was hike downhill from the spot the 500 foot well was dug. We hiked about 500 feet below that house and then we dug into the hillside (it's public open space, so, we just dug without permission with our hands).
Since the hill is steep, there was only about six inches of top soil, which we kicked away with our boots, and we noticed that there was a wide expance of gray "mud" at that level.
When we stopped for a moment to survey the area, we belatedly noticed a "band" of no vegetation at about the same level, crossing the mountainside along the isocline.
Given that we kicked away the topsoil in a half dozen spots, where this band seems very localized (about 100 feet long and only about 6 feet to 15 feet in height), our *assumption* is that there is a band of mud that was mixed up with the Franciscan sediments 30 million (or so) years ago when the Pacific plate rammed into the edge of California.
So, what we *think* happened is that the well drillers simply hit that "puddle" of gray mud at about 500 feet and that it took months to pump all that mud out from the pocket that the drillers were obtaining the water from.
The funny thing is that just those two houses experienced that gray mud, which even the well drillers said was odd in our area, so, take everything we say with a grain of salt, but do realize there are a lot of engineers on this hell who have pondered this situation, so, that's the best we could have come up with.
BTW, the 100-foot long 15-feet wide bridge and treehouse was put on hold because the storms blew it down. But we rebuilt it, and we're starting to build the 16-foot-by-16-foot treehouse itself, but this time, we anchored 1/2 inch steel cables to hold the treehouse *above* the 100-foot long bridge (Jeff Liebermann is always welcome to visit and I'll show it to him since he lives near by).
If you want, I'll snap some pictures of the new setup, but, it will look really nice since it's 80 feet above the ground when it's all done. Right now, we have the 100-foot suspension bridge done, and we're starting on the treehouse itself, which is going to be floating above the suspension bridge about 75 feet from the hillside and about 25 feet from the anchor redwood and about 80 or so feet above the ground.
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For my LG front loader - access is achieved by removing the top. There are other appliance forums that you might wish to search or post your enquiry ... http://appliantology.org/ Let us know what you find - good luck. John T.
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 07:14:56 -0400, hubops wrote:

Thanks for the advice.
It looks like removing the bottom also gains access to things, which is shown in these two videos (although their problem is that it won't drain - which isn't my problem - but that's the same model as mine, which is the WFW8410SW where I think SW just means "white") so it's a WFW8410.
Video 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQTvBSnEWsI
Video 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1ceH7TKkoE

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On 25/04/2016 9:37 AM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Google is your friend :-)
http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Duet/Duet-Washer-Error-Codes.php
Try that and google first before posting.
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:33:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:

Thanks for the pointer, but I can't get any codes out of the Whirlpool duet Sport Washer WFW8410SW even though I have the following manuals as described on this post from more than two years ago on the same washer (but for a different problem).
https://groups.google.com/forum /#!searchin/alt.home.repair/whirlpool$20duet$20danny/alt.home.repair/3Q0hbYtmEJI/tN1jjcJdeugJ
Troubleshooting manuals, https://www.whirlpool.com/manuals/
(WFW8410SW) Use & Care Guide: https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%20W10235940.pdf
Parts list: https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10238202.pdf
BTW, all the lights light, but nothing works; even the door is locked shut (with the clothes still imprisoned inside).
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:31:16 -0700, Oren wrote:

Power is fine.
Panel is in the laundry room and I've flipped the breakers and tested the iron with the outlet, so, it's something in the washer itself.
WFW8410SW
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 13:45:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

I tried removing that panel, but they must have put the NSA wire tap there because I can't figure out how to remove that front panel yet.
http://v52i.imgup.net/frontpanel5fd7.gif
What I need to find are disassembly instructions for the Whirlpool WFW8410SW.
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