Advice requested to unclog a shower stall (75 or 100 foot snake?)

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Danny D wrote:

I doubt that there are any additional traps in the drain line for the shower. Usually, there is one trap near the drain opening and that's it. The purpose of the trap (which I'm assume you probably already know) is just to trap some water in the line so the sewer gases cannot come back up through the drain and stink up the joint. So, all that is needed is one trap for each drain. After that one trap for each drain, the line should be continuous, with no additional traps, all the way out to the main sewer line that goes out to the street or wherever. I think there is usually a trap at or near the street or curb, probably right after a vent that comes up to the surface of the ground.

I guess the only solution for that would be to use tarps or some type of covering over the carpets etc. But, you're right, it can be a mess. That, of course, is for the snake you have that does not have a drum where the snake stays coiled up. I don't have the drum kind (except for those short hand-operated snakes that come with a drum and a hand crank), so I usually have to figure out how to deal with the mess.
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On Fri, 24 May 2013 18:28:28 -0400, TomR wrote:

How long do you think it took for this "wad" to build up?

Should she have used a better drain cover than the one she has, with, oh, about ten 3/8" or so holes in it?
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TomR-
Great summary & explanation.
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On Fri, 24 May 2013 18:28:28 -0400, TomR wrote:

Since it was an emergency, I didn't have the time for anything more than to fire off the original NNTP request. It turns out, I had to learn on the job, due to the nature of the emergency.
However, *now* I have time to learn where I erred.
Googling, I find this nice YouTube video that shows how to clean out a shower drain using the same Cobra drum snake that I have (mine is branded Brasscraft because Home Depot asked for their own differentiating brand).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nB1vhQEvJ8

I had always thought that you run the motor continuously; and that the reverse was for rewinding the cable; but both those assumptions are wrong.
Apparently the forward position is only used *at* an obstruction; and the reverse is only used *momentarily* to get out of a bind.
Of course, they don't tell you how to rewind all that 75 foot of cable *back* into the drum. I called Cobra today and they said you push the cable forward and rewind it always without the motor running.
The only time you use the motor is when you can't push or pull anymore. Then you only use the motor momentarily they said.
So, in this case, even the professional YouTube videos are lacking in the detail needed to actually perform the job properly. You only know enough to ask the questions if you've already done the job itself.
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As posted elsewhere, the 25' snake probable got stuck at a bend or a T. Put a slight kink about 10-15 degree right behind the expanded wire This will usually help it work it's way past corners and bends.
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On Fri, 24 May 2013 21:35:33 -0500, Attila Iskander wrote:

Understood! Thanks.
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wrote:

Admit it, you just wanted to show off your tools. That's a nice rodding machine, but useless without new cable. I bet there's a story about how you acquired it. Try to spice it up it a bit, ok? Don't say you just picked it up at a garage sale. That's boring.
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On Fri, 24 May 2013 14:03:04 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

Maybe. But perhaps next time I'm showing off my tools, I shouldn't pick my rustiest most broken ones, huh? :)

I found out that Brasscraft is just a name; the real company is Cobra, who called me back on my way to Lisa's house; so I ordered the new 3/8" 75-foot replacement cable, which will arrive next week.
The trick right now is figuring out how to prevent the new cables from rusting - or - is that futile?

How about I make up a story where I acquired it on Craigslist after driving from California to Detroit? http://detroit.en.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/3793977741.html
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