That's what I don't understand! What if it's too cold to run the AC,
yet warm enough so the heater isn't drying the air much? Say it's
60F, and the humidity without any AC is 70%. I would want to heat at
that temperature, not cooling! If you run the AC, won't it have
to be cooling things down to 55F?
I looked at an HVAC forum and there were a lot of people who said
their AC wasn't dehumidifying very much. I suppose you'd tell me
that they don't have systems that are optimized for dehumidifying.
But I still don't understand, simply, what about when it's cold
enough you'd want to use the *heat*, AND it's damp?
If you use a heat pump with the appropriate controls, you won't have a
problem. As to the hows and wherefores, may I recommend that you take a
couple of physics courses.... thermodynamics comes to mind, then attend the
local ASHRAE training, and any of the equipment manufacturers training that
you can get.
Thats why I am talking about using a high efficiency heat pump with back up
strips and the correct controls. It will use the A/C to remove the humidity,
and the strips to keep it from blowing snowballs. I would highly recommend a
2 stage system such as the Rheem RPRL- JEZ Prestige series heat pump with
RHPL series air handler and Honeywell TH8321U1006 control with built in
Now please call your fav local *competent*, licensed, insured,
professionally trained, HVAC technician. You local tech can design a system
specifically for your home, that will do what you want it to.
With the questions she's asking, I wouldn't count on it...
What if, she paints the windows black so the sunlight doesn't shine in?
Or what if, she has dirt hauled in to cover half the walls?
Or what if...
Now you're just being silly.
I *took* a thermodynamics course in college, as it happens and I can
tell you that no home heating/cooling devices were mentioned, much
less analyzed in enough detail to answer the PP's questions. Heck,
*humidity* wasn't mentioned. I suspect most thermodynamics courses
would be the same.
If you want to help, provide information, not red herrings.
Stan Brown, Oak Road Systems, Tompkins County, New York, USA
Because that might have a cost compenent attached to it.
BTW: Noon-Air, are you charging $$$ for estimates on system installations
or replacements yet?
Most auto body shops do, and you have to go to them.
We genrally won't give a quote over the phone [unless we're famillar with
the job - as in a regular customer].
But damn, the price of fuel, the two hours to go out and see what it is they
have, and what it is they want to do, and then write it is just getting out
The estimate they get over the phone is "We have replacement systems from
$4,500 and up".
A quote is what I write for them that includes a basic "whole house"
load/loss calc, Specific model numbers of the equipment, the ARI
certificate, GAMA cert if applicable, and has a fixed price for 30 days.
Thats not free.
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