TRV's


SWMBO has asked me to swap our rad valves to TRV's. I have no problem in draining down and refilling etc. All the TRV's I have seen in the past have 15mm compression nuts on both ends, my rad vales are similar to these http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16343/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Angled-Radiator-Valve-15mm-x-1-2 and have a large nut on the radiator to screw to the valve. Can TRV's with tis thread be obtained? If so from where? I do not want to have to do any pipework rejigging so would like a straight swap out if possible. Also I have heard that the room where the thermostat is should have a TRV, is this correct? Also doing this job would give me an ideal opportunity to get the rads outside and give them a flush out with a hose.
Cheers
John
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I replaced all my TRV's with Danfoss ones a little while ago. My rads were the same as yours with the larger nuts. It was not a problem though as the Danfoss TRV's came with replacement inserts to screw into the radiator - the larger bits that were already in the radiators just got thrown away.
These are the valves I used:-
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/49331
Steve
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These are the valves I used:-
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/49331
Thanks for the quick answer Steve. What is the other component in your picture? Does that replace the lockshield? Is that component necessary? As fat=r as I can tell this is the same valve but without that part. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/70871/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Danfoss-Ras-C-TRV-15mm
Cheers
John
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stevelup wrote:

[snip]
But the inlet of the valve ends up a little further away from the radiator so you might have to do a bit of rejigging to the pipework, depending on how much "slack" you have.
--
Mike Clarke

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I didn't experience that issue on any of the rads I changed the valves on (7 in total).
Steve
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John wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16343/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Angled-Radiator-Valve-15mm-x-1-2

I'm probably going to be a lone voice here, but TRVs haven't really worked out for me, this house and how it is used. Setting up several zones has worked out far better.
Problem was that the TRVs were often left set high when the room was unoccupied - heating the rooms unnecessarily. I guess I just don't have the discipline to check or change them as often as is needed...
Now I have a controller with 20 preset plans - which covers most eventualities. I just select the appropriate plan when things change, leaving the TRVs set to "fairly high".
Of course, YMMV. This is a big house and the number of people here varies a lot - just me at the moment, but not for long, there will be 17 staying here, come Easter. Afterwards I'll probably be more thinking of collapsing in a heap, rather than going around shutting off radiators. But, now, I don't have to. I just press a couple of buttons.
--
Sue





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What kind of controller have you used?
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla
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fred wrote:

A Homation X10 3000.
-- Sue
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Thanks, I've found links to the 2000, all leading to http://www.homation.com which is currently pointing to a dns parking site.
Do you have any links for further info or UK sellers?
--
fred
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fred wrote:

Sorry, Nope. I bought it from a store in the USA, Home Depot IIRC, together with a load of X10 stuff. I had to convert it all for 240v, but it was still far, far cheaper than anything similar in the UK.
Should have bought more :(
-- Sue
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Thanks all the same
--
fred
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Also I have heard that the room where the thermostat is should have a TRV, is this correct?
no, the room with the room stat should not have a trv as per building regs

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16343/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Angled-Radiator-Valve-15mm-x-1-2

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OP here, my mistake that's what I meant to type.
Cheers
John
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http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16343/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Angled-Radiator-Valve-15mm-x-1-2

If you have a gravity feed heating system (with a separate header tank for the central heating top-up) then there is no need to drain down. I put TRV's on all my rads (bar one) without draining down at all. I just used those plumber's rubber bungs to create a vacuum in the system. You insert one into the outlet pipe from the central heating header tank and one into the expansion pipe from the boiler (the one that curls over and hangs over the CH header tank). Once those pipes are bunged up you can remove a radiator, bleed off a bit of water to release the pressure and create the vacuum, and then you can cut off the old valve and replace it with a TRV without any loss of water. Works a treat. This wont work, of course, with a pressurised system.
Kev
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