The recent thread related to building a Clamp Rack got me looking at youtube for options.
Start this video at 3:20 and watch how he cuts the slots for the clamps.
Is this how you would do it?
NO !! I am never, never, going to run without a throat plate, zero clearance if I can get it. As for the rest of it, looks good.
Roughly, sure, what's the problem in your mind?
I'd've done 'em all in one pass have clamped the blanks together first and used a reference block in the fence so that the step would be registered automagically from one to the next.
It's basically just like cutting fingers for a box joint excepting a big one...
The lack of an insert.
No, I would not do it this way at all. Cutting slots locks you into those spacing. While that may never change my method is changeable.
I used individual blocks of wood held in place by a single screw on the back side of the rail. This has bee working fine for over 8 years. And should I decide to change the format these hangers/blocks of wood can be easily moved.
Note this is only one side of my mobile clamp cart, both sides tilt back at the top to prevent clamps from slipping out on their own.
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:ca98dd6a-ff3f-43bf-843b- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Nope, not how I'd do it. Instead of cutting slots into a wide board, I'd edge-glue blocks onto a narrow board.
My question was related to the cutting operation, sans insert, not the design of the rack.
..
...
Didn't even notice...probably not, but for pieces that large don't see any _real_ issue.
What bothered me most in the section I watched (only just that very few seconds about the cut) was the position of fingers on a couple of the passes...
...[time out for refresher]...
OK, went back a looked again...I saw the very first point where there is an insert then never paid any attention to it when did the cutting being focused on where the blade was, etc., ...
No, I'd make an insert even though with his flanges he'd have to have a cutout for them to get the height...
Yep, there was that too.
I noticed that. I've never spun a dado set at that height so I was mostly wondering if it was common practice to do it without an insert. It just looks extremely scary, but as you intimated, the piece is wide enough to span the opening.
As they say, "What could possibly go wrong?" ;-)
I might. If properly set up it can be done safely. The wood easuly spans the opening and if clamped or secured together it would be like pushing a big block.
Now so sure of his hand placement though.
Yeah, his hand placement was "Part 2" of my concern.
I would have no problem doing it that way. I don't find it a problem. I would have my throat plate on so nothing tipped in when I get close to the end. But it's not necessary either.
The missing throat plate was the reason for the question, so in reality, you *would* have a problem doing it that way. ;-)
Yes, the throat plate would prevent an accidental tilt of the work piece from happening in the middle of the cut should you not be 100% concentrating on what you are doing. The guy in the video was either being too lazy to make one or too cheap to buy one.
I certainly wouldn't do either. It's not safe. It would be too easy to try to cut with one edge over the opening. I'd never get my hands that near the blade and I'd never stand directly behind the blade. I say, three strikes.
My vote is "lazy". Saws come with one.
With what he's cutting, the only way one edge would be over the opening is if at least 80% of the piece in fully on the table meaning it is very well supported. Also, in that same instance his hands would be well enough away from the blades.
I'm not buing that one. His hand was only inches from the blade, without something going wrong. If the end of the board goes down the throat, it'll kick the board and who knows where his hands will end up. His hands were only a couple of inches from the blade to begin with. No thanks!
It's been many years since I made my rack, but know I did not use a dado blade. Using a bit a little wider than the clamp bar thickness, I drilled a row of holes that became the ends of the slots. The rest of the slot was formed with two regular saw blade cuts from the edge of the board to the hole edges so I ended up with U-shaped slots. I don't remember WHY I chose this method, but it may well have been the dado-throat plate interference issue.
You are mostly correct. But the blade is high, so the cutting action is mostly down, not back toward the miter gauge, so it could be pulled down. But highly unlikely given the fact that as you said, most of rest is well supported. The only time I don't use a throat plate is with a sled , either panel or crosscut.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.