Roughly, sure, what's the problem in your mind?
I'd've done 'em all in one pass have clamped the blanks together first
and used a reference block in the fence so that the step would be
registered automagically from one to the next.
It's basically just like cutting fingers for a box joint excepting a big
Didn't even notice...probably not, but for pieces that large don't see
any _real_ issue.
What bothered me most in the section I watched (only just that very few
seconds about the cut) was the position of fingers on a couple of the
...[time out for refresher]...
OK, went back a looked again...I saw the very first point where there is
an insert then never paid any attention to it when did the cutting being
focused on where the blade was, etc., ...
No, I'd make an insert even though with his flanges he'd have to have a
cutout for them to get the height...
On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 at 11:10:18 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
Yep, there was that too.
I noticed that. I've never spun a dado set at that height so I was mostly
wondering if it was common practice to do it without an insert. It just
looks extremely scary, but as you intimated, the piece is wide enough to
span the opening.
As they say, "What could possibly go wrong?" ;-)
No, I would not do it this way at all. Cutting slots locks you into
those spacing. While that may never change my method is changeable.
I used individual blocks of wood held in place by a single screw on the
back side of the rail. This has bee working fine for over 8 years. And
should I decide to change the format these hangers/blocks of wood can be
Note this is only one side of my mobile clamp cart, both sides tilt back
at the top to prevent clamps from slipping out on their own.
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 11:55:46 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
I certainly wouldn't do either. It's not safe. It would be too easy
to try to cut with one edge over the opening. I'd never get my hands
that near the blade and I'd never stand directly behind the blade. I
say, three strikes.
On 1/4/17 8:18 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
With what he's cutting, the only way one edge would be over the opening
is if at least 80% of the piece in fully on the table meaning it is very
well supported. Also, in that same instance his hands would be well
enough away from the blades.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I'm not buing that one. His hand was only inches from the blade,
without something going wrong. If the end of the board goes down the
throat, it'll kick the board and who knows where his hands will end
up. His hands were only a couple of inches from the blade to begin
with. No thanks!
You are mostly correct. But the blade is high, so the cutting action is
mostly down, not back toward the miter gauge, so it could be pulled
down. But highly unlikely given the fact that as you said, most of rest
is well supported. The only time I don't use a throat plate is with a
sled , either panel or crosscut.
I'm with krw on this. Both practices are taking unnecessary
risks, considering how little effort it takes to make an
insert for the dado set, and to position your hands and body
properly for safety.
Yes, the throat plate would prevent an accidental tilt of the work
piece from happening in the middle of the cut should you not be 100%
concentrating on what you are doing. The guy in the video was either
being too lazy to make one or too cheap to buy one.
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