will 16/15 ga nail split mdf chair rail?

[nospam_coloradotrout]

planning to buy either a 15ga or 16ga naile ( I have 18ga) to attached some painted mdf chair rail.

will either split the mdf?

any tips?

thanks,

[Dave Mundt]

Well, bigger is better. I suspect that, as with most nailing...the closer you are to an edge the greater the chance that a chunk will split out (especially with MDF). So...the answer is "yes...if you nail in the wrong place". Otherwise...probably not. I would suggest the porter cable da250, myself, as it is quite a well made system and not too expensive. However, if you only have to shoot a few finishing nails, perhaps a Harbor Freight junker would do fine too...and would cost you a lot less. Regards Dave Mundt

[MattH]

nospam [e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Not unless you shoot too close to the end. I'd be more worried about the fairly large hole that the 15ga will leave. I assume you're painting it so you can fill it with minimal problems. I usually try to use my 18ga nailer with 2" brads and a bead of caulk with stuff like this. The brads really just hold it in place while the caulk dries. I've found this method to be solid but not so permanent that it can't be removed with minimal damage to the wall. Really, if you're painting, it doesn't matter too much which you're using. Good luck, Matt

[Stephen M]

MDF doesn't have "grain". It won't split.

Before someone jumps on that statement, The wood fibers are not aligned in one direction as they are in wood, consequently, they will be less likely to split.

Steve

[RB]

MDF may not split in the literal sense but it will split. As stated, if you get near an edge the effect will be the same as splitting. I've had it happen with 16 gauge finish nails.

RB

Stephen M wrote:

[nospam_coloradotrout]

very interesting..

what kinda caulk?

how do you apply caulk so it looks good..

i've d>nospam [e-mail] wrote in

[Joe Nation]

MDF will split/crack if it is nailed or screwed near an edge. DAMHINT

[Scott Brownell]

nospam [e-mail] wrote

If you use caulk use painter's caulk (it will be labled as such). Quick drying spackle works well, work in with your finger & lightly buff off the excess. Drywall compound will also work if you've got some of that around, apply the same as spackle.

Cut the tip as small as you can & apply a dab to the nail hole, clean off excess with a lightly damp sponge & let dry.

All of these may shrink a bit so may require a 2nd coat.

Silicone is always a PITA, best way I've found is to apply slowly & steadily with as small a tip opening as possible for the job. Clean up with mineral spirits befoe it has a chance to set. A fingertip dipped in the MS is great for smoothing out the bead.

HTH, Scott

-- An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later, the damage remains.

[Dave Mundt]

Greetings and Salutations...

Ok...I will buy that. Perhaps it would be better to say "blow out". I have had a number of times where the pressure of the nail going through the fiberboard caused the edge to bulge, if the nails were too close to the edge of the board, or too big. Regards Dave Mundt

[nospam_coloradotrout]

Sounds more like you are saying how to use caulk to fill nail holes.

I was curious how the poster mean to use 18ga brads and caulk to attach.

fwiw- my best looking silicone job was done w/o using a finger.. just run a steady bead and dont touch it! I'd like to find out who did our baths in our 1st home. Man.. they laid a perfect rouded bead.. like it was 100% automated.