Why is there bandsaw blade drift?

Apr 19, 2006 25 Replies

I must be missing something. I'll confess that I'm a novice user of bandsaws, so excuse my ignorance.

I have a 16" Jet and have been using POS BC Saw blades. (That could stand for "plain-old-steel" or the more common meaning.)

These blades are welded so poorly that the teeth near the weld are proud of the balance of the teeth on the band, plus they seem to have welded in a twist. So, when cutting I get a thunk thunk when the proud teeth take a bigger bite -and- my side guides are retracted enough that there is just a tick tick when the twist passes through them. The lower guides are backed completely off.

Lately I have been building a playhouse for my granddaughter and since it will have to be moved 800 miles, a lot of it is bolted together. For this and other reasons, I have for the most part completely resized the framing lumber to get it of uniform size and straight. In some cases, I've remachined a bunch of old, dry Douglas fir two-bys left over from the framing of my neighbor's house.

Needless to say, I didn't want to run this stuff directly through my jointer, planer and tablesaw before cleaning off the dirt, so I have taken skin cuts on a lot of this stuff with the bandsaw. This has not been kind to the blades and I've used up a couple of 3/4 inchers.

Despite the crappy, dull blades, that sometimes require considerable force to get a stick through, I can still saw off a nice uniform (albeit, rough) 16th inch slice from the face of a 2x8 without -any- blade drift. I set the fence parallel to the miter-gauge slot when I set up the saw and it's never changed.

What am I doing wrong?

Snip

Is that a wide blade perhaps? MiniMax claims that you do not need to use guides at all if the blade is properly tensioned and is wide enough.

"This has not been kind to the blades and I've used up a couple of 3/4 inchers."

Something about: "the innate animosity of inanimate objects"

comes to mind.

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