Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to
have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's
just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one.
Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the
second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good
looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've
done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA
The 7/8"? I doubt you would be able to get the board past the guard.
Straighten the board on a TS riding on a jig. You may end up with a board
that will fit your jointer after trimming the edges.
If you were able to run the 7" wide board through the jointer and then
flipped it to work the 7/8" piece, you will have to keep the rest of the 6
1/8" of the board off the table surface, not likely to happen.
I would rip it, flatten it, straighten the 2 mating edges and glue it back
You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a
nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a
small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the
middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run
this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a
reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good,
then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear.
Another way is to check with any local woodworking shops and see if
they'd let you buy time on one of their machines.
You may also want to rethink not wanting a handplane. Often using
handtools in conjunction with your power tools is the quickest and most
efficient manner of working. But be forewarned if you do get the
handplane it might be the first step into neanderdom.
I'm pretty new at this, but the sled for the planer seems like a great
idea. What would I've purchased has more often than not been bigger
than my 6" jointer. And even had I purchased that fancy 8" jointer,
I've already encountered 9" wood that wouldnt fit that. I would hazard
guess that almost all home woodworkers are without a jointer large
enough for all their needs. My planer on the other hand is 13.5"
wide and would probably cover 90% of my needs. It also feels alot
safer than my jointer when running full faces of wood. I really want
to try this jig out and see how well it works.
Thanks brandom. With my screwed up schedule, it's really hard for me to
figure out when breakfast is compared to supper, much less be around to get
to a shop that would have one. Nice suggestion though. Uhhhh I aint real
sure about this whole neander way of life. It good for those who like it,
and I got nothing against it. I just like my machines.
I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first face
planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are badly
twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or whatever.
The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product.
Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not.
Well that's a thought. I might put an ad in the paper to see if anybody with
a killer shop needs a buddy! :-) Seriously though, I know they're out there,
the big machines that is, but it's just finding them. Normally guys come to
me wanting to use my machines cause their Craftsman whatever just won't do
BTW I'm in Ky.
My shop time is very limited. I seldom take the time to use the jointer
to flatten the face of the board anymore. Most boards can be run
through the planer only and be flat enough. If you're board is
reasonably flat, just put it through the planer only.
I save the boards that need the jointer (bad cup, twist, etc) for when
I need small pieces and then joint them. When I first started, I
foolishly spent a lot of time trying to flatten a 6-8 foot long board
all at once (when I had other boards on the pile I could've used).
Dave, that's sure a pretty tool, but where's the cord? How do you turn it
Seriously, if I started with one hand tool, I'd probably have to have
another, then another. Like an addict you know. I "had" thought about it
though, but never inhaled! :-)
I'm in Ky.
I know how you feel. However, a hand plane is indispensable for a
I have all the power tools I need to build most anything and still find
myself reaching for the plane all the time. But you are right - it is an
addiction - and we are the support group and the enablers all in one easy to
meet place! LOL
Kelly Mehler's suggestion:
Use a scrub plane. You can knock down the high spots until it's
reasonably flat. Then run the board, scrubbed side down, through the
thickness planer. That will give you a flat, level surface ---- and go
Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet :)
so I'll chime in:
1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The
rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a
touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off:
2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer.
You may need to remove the safety guard.
3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw
it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and
feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet.
Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar.
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