What is anybody paying for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be m= ost relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide.
I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off.= .. I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want= to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gav= e it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the= rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled on your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the cherry.
for rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footer= s mostly 6+ inches wide. > > I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and= might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume = the wood. > > It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in th= e stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 fo= oters so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually = break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather se= ll it rough. > Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled o= n your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the ch= erry. Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.
No prob doing the edge. The difficulty is making the first face flat on the= jointer.=20
I learned proper method for squaring up rough lumber is first joint one fac= e to make flat, joint one edge by putting flattened face against fence so y= ou have face and egde at 90, plane other face in planer so now 3 sides corr= ect, rip to width for 4th edge.=20
Easier done with a 2 or 3 foot piece than an 8 footer for that first face.
rough 4/4 cherry now days? West coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly
6+ inches wide. > > I have some huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood. > > It is not top notch stuff, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough. > Use a 12" wide piece of 8' long 3/4" plywood as a rip sled on your TS, clamp the cherry to the sled and rip straight one edge of the cherry. Or as i do, rip straight with a track saw.
O(K, sorry, I must have misunderstood.
to make flat, joint one edge by putting flattened face against fence so you have face and egde at 90, plane other face in planer so now 3 sides correct, rip to width for 4th edge.
Yeah me too. ;~) And I learned to never, never ever use the jointer to clean up a final cut. When I was a Kid I never quite understood the logic. Many years ago I finally realized that it is extremely difficult to produce a board of "exact" width if you use a jointer to produce both finished edges.
f... I need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
nt to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I g= ave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down t= he rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
In SE Kansas I have a source selling it for $1.75/BF. He is usually limited and it is not of the stellar grain quality I have seen at other places. At other western MO dealers I see it in the $4 range and, again, not in large quantity.
most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. I have some huge stacks in= the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I need the space sooner= than I can consume the wood. It is not top notch stuff, some knots and som= e checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I r= arely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not= fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would = (wood) rather sell it rough.
Thanks all. This adds some sanity. The local Rockler had some OK looking 4/=
4 in 5 to 8" widths by 8 feet. They had the boards marked with bf and total= price. It seemed expensive so I asked what was the price per bf. They were= asking $12 per bf!!!
The $7-$8 range is more in line with what I was seeing a few years back whe= n I was buying more wood than I do nowdays.=20
I spoke with my local Woodcraft guy and he is going to let me put some in h= is rack on consignment and we'll work out some equitable price and deal. I = am thinking maybe $5 per bf and and seeing if he'll give me $3. I will be m= ore than doubling my original cost so maybe not such a bad deal.
I think I will also put a recently finished little stickley nightstand next= to the lumber as an example of what finished material looks like. Or maybe= just a few short finished pieces.
need the space sooner than I can consume the wood.
sell off. I could S2S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM jointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then start surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough.
I don't know this for certain, but I think s2s wood is normally planed, not jointed, on both faces. I don't think I would bother jointing wood until just before I was going to use it in a project.
coast would be most relevant. 8 footers mostly 6+ inches wide. > >I have s= ome huge stacks in the SF bay area and might want to sell some off... I nee= d the space sooner than I can consume the wood. > >It is not top notch stuf= f, some knots and some checking in the stack I want to sell off. I could S2= S1E the stuff but I rarely joint 8 footers so I gave it a try on my 8" PM j= ointer and it was not fun. I usually break down the rough first and then st= art surfacing. Would (wood) rather sell it rough. I don't know this for cer= tain, but I think s2s wood is normally planed, not jointed, on both faces. = I don't think I would bother jointing wood until just before I was going to= use it in a project.
Yes, I am of the same impression but I also believe they do what they call = skip planing with a two sided planer and the feed rollers are farther away = and you don't have as much effect of pushing the board flat to a table.
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