Dormant season. Winter, for those outside the tropics, dry season
Tree is in a conservation mode then, with its resources in the root system,
so less sugar for syrup and less unbound water to foster mold.
Winter is also a good time for two other reasons - you can see better where
and how your selected tree intersects in the canopy with others, and it
damages the ground less if you skid when frozen.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/TMU/publications.htm for all you want to know
And another reason for felling it in the winter....felling a tree is
sometimes very labor intensive, so you'll sweat less when it's cool outside.
This advice from a retired highway worker.
email@example.com (Plebian) wrote in message
In addition to the advice mentioned in other responses (i.e. fell in
fall/winter). Go girdle the trees you want now. The canopy will
pull a lot of water out of the logs over the summer.
I don't know if season affects color --- I'd doubt it but I suppose it
could. My knee-jerk reaction is that correct drying is most important
I asked my brother-in-law whose family has heated with wood for over
200 years in New Hampshire. He said "Cut in the middle of summer when
the leaves are fully developed. Knock it down and let it sit a couple
weeks with the leaves on till they wither and are completely dry.
Then cut it up and split it. The leaves draw enough of the water out
that the wood is pretty well ready to burn that winter." I tried it
with a big black walnut and the wood was dry enough to turn without
Thanks for the reply's. I've got a rather large and odd maple out
back that just might have some fine figure inside. Just want to do it
right. I studied on that girdle thing some. A question on that:
will girdling open up the possibility of spalting?
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