I got a nice little desk from the Salvation Army for $69 (US).
But it is white. Now I need to figure what kind of paint I
need to change the color. I need something pretty tough,
because I will be using it as a desk and a part time
workbench for assembling small items. The top has some
mars, I will need to clean and seal it. On one edge it
is damaged a bit. Probably from being pushed up against
I understand that the procedure for the painting is:
1 Clean it good with some sort of general purpose cleaner.
2 Sand it with fine grit sandpaper.
3 Clean it with a tack cloth.
4 Prime it
6 Tack Cloth
7 Paint 2 coats.
8 let dry thoroughly
Is it possible that the wood under the paint is something really nice?
If so, I'd strip it and polyurethane it. If you want paint, a good
enamel should do.
Going back 30 years or more, it was common for people to "antique"
furniture by painting it with a kit. Some nice wood got hidden for the
sake of some trendy style.
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 12:07:58 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
The Benjamin Moore Advance paint may fit the need without the oil paint
"A premium quality, waterborne alkyd enamel that delivers the desired
flow and leveling characteristics of conventional alkyd paint. It
provides a tough, satin finish that stands up to repeated washing.
It is easy to apply, resists spattering and cleans up with soap and
I used it on the cabinet/bookcase I built for the kitchen.
"Ideal for interior doors, trim, cabinets, walls, and ceilings. For
primed or previously painted wallboard, plaster, masonry, wood and
"Depending on weather and drying conditions, it could take up to 30 days
to reach optimum hardness and final sheen."
Because of other things I was doing in the kitchen and then a 2 week
vacation, I was actually able to let my project cure for the full 30 days
**I'm not sure about that "Ideal for...walls and ceilings" claim. Even my
Benjamin Moore dealer was hesitant. When I went to buy the paint for the
kitchen walls, she suggested the Aura line instead of the Advance. She said
it can be very hard to prevent sags with the Advance line. It is kind of
The Aura is very quick drying. Under the proper conditions you can recoat i
1 hour. I actually enjoyed painting with it. Did the whole kitchen in one d
And why I suggested an oil based paint. They typically are good to go
in 24 hours.
As far as clean up goes. I would much rather clean up with thinner than
soap and water. Thinner cuts oil based paint almost instantly. Soap
and water on water based paint takes quite a while at the faucet. I
throw rollers away for both paints.
On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Ah, but a question still remains:
Which ends up harder after it's own published curing time? I don't know the
answer, I just ask the questions. ;-)
In other words, does the Advance paint end up harder and more durable after
it's 30 day complete cure than the oil paint does after it's 24 hour comple
cure? Let's not quibble over cure times. Let's wait 6 months and then test
both paints. I'm pretty sure that they would both be 100% cured by then.
If the Advance paint is harder than the oil 6 months down the road, then
it's the better paint for a "desk/part time workbench". Again, I'm not sayi
that it will be, I'm simply saying that it's not about cure time, it's abou
I use Sherwin Williams Oil based Alkyd paint on all of my wife's
quilting studio furniture, 7 separate pieces. Nothing sticks to it and
the surface is hard. She regularly swaps out sewing machines from her
8' sewing table with no stick spots or marks left in the paint surface.
If there is a harder drying surface, she/we don't need it. And
seriously who wants to wait 30 days or 6 months to use the surface? We
actually wait 3~4 days to place the sewing machines and fabrics on the
surfaces but we can easily handle the painted surfaces 24 hours after
Weren't you the guy who swore by conversion varnish for painting stuff
that needs a hard, non-tacky finish.
I was researching some cabinet door/drawer providers and they seem to
all use a conversion varnish as a top coat.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
On Thursday, January 31, 2019 at 9:15:14 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
LOL... bet you are right. Still use it, still love it. Can't brush it, but
if you can spray lacquer, you can spray this stuff.
A lot of speculation on what to use on furniture, and for me, no question i
t would be alkyd. Latex is considered a permeable finish, and alkyd is alm
ost impermeable. With alkyd finishes the abrasion resistance is much great
er and its light resistance is higher.
Green strength of alkyd is 48-72 hours depending on site conditions such as
ventilation, temperature and humidity. Full cure is about 21 days accordi
ng to SW, Coronado, Pittsburgh etc.
Latex is not a favorite for horizontal surfaces, high abrasion surfaces, or
surfaces exposed to water. NOTE: I specified horizontal surfaces. Latex
will shed water when given a chance (vertical surfaces) but is still a per
meable surface. I have seen green/cure times vary so wildly over the years
I wouldn't speculate on either.
So as a contractor, I need something I can control and something I can rely
on for specific performance. I use latex on walls, some trims, alkyd on ev
To see a brief discussion on permeability of paints, check out this link:
On Fri, 1 Feb 2019 01:05:19 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
If abrasion resistance matters to you you want urethane. Some time
back I spent a good bit of the taxpayers' money evaluating the
abrasion resistance of various paints to use on military aircraft and
the result consistently was that urethanes were as a group the most
abrasion resistant paints available. There were more resistant
coatings (thick nickel plating or boron carbide for example) but they
could not be applied with a sprayer.
On Friday, February 1, 2019 at 6:06:18 AM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:
No doubt there are superior finishes of all types for any application that address specific aspects of coatings.
Working within the context of the OP's question, I would not suggest a coating that he probably could not apply without training, would no doubt have to purchase additional specialized equipment to apply, and would cost more than the desk itself.
Doubtful a well meaning hobby/DIY guy (but certainly not excluding the possibility) of application of true industrial related coatings (NOT paint) that you speak of.
Just in case, this is my first resource:
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