3235 Guess... An inside measuring vernier [type] caliper, to measure
some inside dimension between the probe on the right of the upper slide
and the anvil on the right in the first picture.
On 7/17/2014 4:19 AM, Rob H. wrote:
Your description is essentially correct, but it's not for providing the
ground, but rather is called a "lightning rod"-- actually to provide a
preferential strike point for lightning. The saddle nails to a roof
ridge. The rest is as you said.
They're dangerous as Hell, producing a greater tendency for strikes than
without them. Safer, and less strike-inducing are corona brushes, which
you'll find on any modern installation. They rapidly dissipate
accumulated charges without inducing a direct strike.
"Rob H." wrote in message
I need some help with 3236 and 3237 in this set:
3239 - Slide hammer bearing puller, and a "pickle fork" tie rod separator.
(I'll be everyone in this group will get that one.)
Look at the left one again , it's designed for pushing , not pulling , from
the look of that ridge up by the handle . Having just <2 weeks ago> replaced
my ball joints <and control arm bushings> , I'm thinking that tool is for
installing them .
That could be right but I never have seen one for doing that. I worked
around automotive shops for 20 years. Generally an impact wrench on the
bolt and or nut would seat bushings or ball joints and or tie rod ends.
A zip gun/ air chisel was generally used to remove A frame bushings.
Perhaps the left tool is for the seating the bushings rather than ball
It is a simple slide hammer. The fixture on the end is for a 2 jaw
puller attachment. The cone shaped piece has a convex taper to one side
and a concave one on the other. When used with the jaws it clamps the
jaws in whichever direction needed. I have the same on in a case in the
this is it's cousin.
The pickle fork is correct though.
We ended up pushing the bushings in with a 12 ton hydraulic press , and
that was a b**ch , I don't think any kind of hammer device would work .
Lower BJ's were installed using a made-for-that tool and an air impact
wrench , but I think a device like that one would also work to hammer them
in . These were on a 28 yr old truck , and to get the old bushings out we
had to "shrink" them with an air chisel , and burn the rubber out of some to
get at the center sleeve .
Answers for 533 you idiot, took all of 10 seconds to find.
>>> >>> 3231 - GM H platform (Vega, Astre, Monza etc.) rear brake
>> >> I'll take yours and Leon's word on this one.
> >Changed a bunch of them myself. They "worked" but getting them to
> >retract when they rusted was almost impossible.
> >Here is a mitchell page showing them.
Thanks! That really nails this one down, I'll send your link to the owner.
Still no solid answers for the last two in this set but the rest have been
You haven't seen them in the last seven weeks, and you bitch about it all
I didn't create the problem, you are the problem.
If you are doing this for attention, STOP. Why not direct your posts toward
answers to others' problems. At least then, if you get attention, it will
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