I am building a workbench and intend to flatten the top by hand. I have a
Stanley #5. Will that get the job done (seems like a pretty long plane) or
would it be worth it to hustle over to Ebay and start bidding on a #6 or
Thanks for the advice.
As someone said sometime ago: If viewed in the spatial frequency
domain planing is a low pass operation with the cut-off frequency
being the inverse of the plane length (times some factor). In other
words: With a short plane you leave all "waves" with a wavelength
longer than (twice) the plane length in, because th plane will follow
those wafes rather than smooth them out.
Why not use tha famous pattern lathe? If it's such a universal
hypertool you could make workbenches by the dozen without having to
lift a finger.
Greetings and Salutations...
On 18 Jan 2004 14:47:53 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Alan W)
This is a good suggestion. In MOST cases it will be $20 or
less. While I like using a good plane as well as the next Neander,
THis is one of those times when it makes a lot of sense to me to
let the machines do it.
Unless...of course...one's hobby is hand-planing a bench.
In that case, have at it.
As for the length of the plane...Got to remember that
the LONGER the plane the flatter a surface one will get.
email@example.com (Alan W) wrote:
Just a word of warning. I did that this weekend. My workbench is made
from Southern Yellow Pine and a few of the boards were a bit sappy. This
clogged the sanding drum and made my buddy a bit unhappy :) We changed the
paper aftwerwards, it wouldn't clean up.
This is pretty good advice, but you
should take into consideration that this
is likely to leave sanding grit embedded
in your top, which is something you may
not want. Among other potential
problems, if you ever wanted to tune the
top up with a plane in the future, that
grit wouldn't be good for the sole or
the edge of the iron.
Yes. No-one wants #6s, so they're pretty cheap and a #7 is useful for
when you finally want a long jointer.
If you've made the top before it arrives, use the #5 anyway.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
On 18 Jan 2004 18:19:30 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Dick Durbin) wrote:
Mine doesn't, but it gets more use than my #7. I often joint short
things, rarely a long tabletop though. And I can't lift the #8, so I
barely use it.
Information wants to be free.
Data fancies being tied up and spanked by Troi.
On 18 Jan 2004 18:19:30 -0800, email@example.com (Dick Durbin) brought
forth from the murky depths:
Do you use it for curls, or woodworking, Dick? ;)
My $15 #60-1/2 (with Hock blade installed + the orig iron) is
my most-used plane, followed by the Knight smoother.
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
Do tell more, I'm trying to pick up a 60 1/2 now off Ebay for the Hock
Iron I won off Ebay 2 weeks ago. I was surprised at how usefull a
even newer junk low angle (20) block plan was with a sharp iron. It
did not cause tearout on the purpleheart I was working on like the #4
and #5 did.
That's "Jake's" to you, bubba. And when Tom called, he asked
for "C-less" (out of the blue and with that confounded Eastern
accent) so I told him he had a wrong number and _almost_ hung
up on him. I thought it was some idjut wanting a boat shop or
sumpin'. 'Sea' what?
--== May The Angst Be With You! ==--
-Yoda, on a bad day
http://diversify.com Ending Your Web Page Angst.
the #7 sounds good, but a thicknessing sander sounds better.
$1 a minute at my lumber supplier. I rarely spend more than $5 at any
one time. Get it close when you glue up, use the sander to clean it
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:57:14 -0500, "Woodpecker"
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