I have a 2013 F150 six cylinder, with 90K miles. The belts squeaked and I had the serpentine and AC belts changed. I am amazed at how much better the truck is running. I wouldn't think that would make a difference with performance. What am I missing?
Thanks!
That this is a woodworking group.
That's true, but there aren't many groups left with even semi-technical people. Those who repair their own woodworking equipment are more likely to repair their vehicles than most people.
The squeak may have been triggering the knock sensor, knocking back the timing which would definitely hurt performance.
I'm saying MAY - and it is about the only thing I , as a retired mechanic, could think of that COULD cause it.
Is it really running better, or does it just sound better (tighter)? I also have a '13 with about 93K. It doesn't sound bad at all. It's been a really good truck. Living its life in the South helps a lot.
Slipping belts can affect many things. Alternator not providing enough voltage, water pump not cooling properly.
Add a racing stripe and gain 15% more HP.
Washing the truck helps too.
Now, that's a bridge _too_ far!
Thanks, Clare! I would never have known that was a possibility.
Mike
It's running better. Before, it kind of dragged when I stopped and started, but now it really hums and goes. These F150s are really great trucks. I used to always drive V8s, but the truth is I really just need a six to haul wood here and there.
Leon,
It must have been a slipping belt that made the difference. Now to price those racing stripes . . .
;~)
I recall many years ago my alternator belt was slipping on an already under powered vehicle and it was really sluggish.
New belt, found lost power. I added stripes later. ;~)
I've only ever replaced a V-belt or serpentine belt as a precaution - when it looked like it was aged-out. I can't understand how a belt can do much slipping without a whole-lotta-noise or failure ? My only odd-ball and hard-to-diagnose situation - was an intermittently squealing serpentine belt that was still in good condition - tensioner was fine - it turned out to be a tiny tiny < hot temp. mist spray > leak in the coolant reservoir ! When the engine heated up and built up a tiny bit of pressure in the coolant reservoir - it sprayed onto the belt / pulley and caused the slight slippage and noise .. That's where I learned the trick to diagnose a squealing belt - as opposed to a idler / alternator .. bearing noise. When it's sitting there idling & squealing pour a tiny bit of water - a teaspoon ish - over the nearest pulley - If the squealing goes away immediately - gotta be belt noise. If it was bearing noise - a few drops of water wouldn't have that effect .. ps : Clare one of the very few mystery problems on my several olde Taurus Vulcan. John T.
Had the "mini-pisser" leak in the upper rad hose of my 1989 3.0 liter AeroScare coming home from Huntsville one nasty cold blowing winter night. Thankfully I had a jaclknife and a tool to fit the hose clamp. Cut off about 5/8" of rad hose and put it back together - no more leak. The water trick for checking belt noise goes WAY back - learned that as an a pprentice back in 1969. On V belts a bit of soap in the water helped - on serprntines that can either shut it up or turn the sueal into a howl!!!!!
A slippy belt will definitely cut down the charging rate and a low battery will make it sluggish starting
Now, that's a bridge _too_ far!
Talcum powder will reduce its drag co-efficient.
Dave in SoTex
Oh no, spray the body with silicone, let the painters deal with it later. ;~)
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