Veritas MK.II Honing Guide - Excellent

That sounds really good. I have tardive disconesia in my forearms and hands so anythiing that makes it easier to sharpen is a great help, I'll buy it, later though. Thinking about an electric Makita copy too (flat wheel with water).

Once it's set up (it takes ~30 seconds the second time you do it) you just roll it back and forth across the abrasive. And the roller unit is big and stable. With your bad hands I'd strongly encourage you to invest in one.

JP

Sounds too good.

AAvK

construction chisels are now perfectly beveled and microbeveled.

I have an MK.II also, and I generally agree - excellent idea for a product. I've got some very sharp chisels as a result. However, I have a question... When I adjust the roller from regular to microbevel position, it seems to change the side-to-side angle of the blade. As a result, I always end up with long thin triangles for microbevels, unless I give the chisel a little tap to compensate. I'm pretty sure it's not that my blades are out of square (it's happened with multiple blades, and I've measured with a square). I'm also pretty sure it's not my stone, as it happens whether I sharpen on a water stone or

I would point out that you still have to exert downwards pressure with this jig. If that's an issue, then one of the powered wheels is likely a better option.

Chris

I think Lee Valley is a great company, too, but I'm not so enthusiastic about its riteration of the honing jig. Like the first one, narrow chisels do not stay put. Maybe it's just me, but I doubt it, although I would feel better if I had a chorus. Do I?

Andy, my MkII doesn't have that problem. Maybe the inner shaft is bent, so that when you change the microbevel adjustment one side is lifting more than the other?

dave

Hi LDR,

Narrow chisels and Japanese dovetail chisels can still be problematic. So perhaps a chorus of one.

There are a couple ways to mitigate the issue. One is to carefully tighten both sides down evenly and squarely. Tis the last part of that which affects narrow chisels the most. If the clamp bar sits askew even a little, the pressure exerted on the chisel from a side angle can/will cause the chisel to pivot if not downright move.

Aside from the above, another way to help is to glue a piece of fine sandpaper to the lower roller assembly, across the whole length, where the chisel back makes contact. I have used 180 grit. This works well.

On another trial, I glued a *very* thin piece of neoprene in the same location and I perhaps liked it better. One needs to select a very thin piece, thinner than the former jig had, which was too thick and squishy. That thicker piece only served to allow a certain amount of spring/twist which allowed a narrow chisel to twist anyway.

The above methods have helped many people, but not all. I have then suggested for narrow chisels to purchase an inexpensive side-clamp jig. They have their own bugaboos, but do work for the narrow chisels if they are not too short.

Take care, Mike

with a question on this MK.II honing guide, I was wondering whether this could be used for skew chisels. Answer: not easily. A couple months later,

registration

The skew registration jig works well.

LV will also be releasing shortly a new lower assembly with a cambered roller. Makes plane blades with a camber much easier to hone.

And I second the "Keep it up, Rob" sentiment. Like plow planes, the high carbon replacement blades, and ...

Take care, Mike

buying a Kell jig. I was practically using a micrometer to tighten the Veritas evenly before giving up. The idea of using sandpaper did occur to me but I never acted on it. I was told at the last woodworking show in Portland,Or, that Lie Neilsen was developing a jig too. It will be interesting to see what they come up with. Larry

I agree. I don't really notice that I'm using much pressure except when putting on a new bevel or hogging out a chip, but a powered wheel would pretty much eliminate it. AAvK - if you are looking at powered wheels, don't overlook the Veritas offering. I believe it was recently highest rated in Fine WWing.

JP

I'm betting it will be outstanding. I asked Tom Lie-Nielsen what they used to factory hone plane blades, and he said a standard (grey, usually) side clamp jig. I wish I had asked about chisels.

JP

Robin's company makes a fine honing guide. They use a toggle clamp blade securing setup as on our "Sharpening Sled" honing guide. We also had customers bring up the issue of small chisels moving while honing. We added an abrasive surface to the blade contact area of our guide and have not had one issue since. Robin, I think the same solution for your guide would achieve the same results? Tim Queeno alisam.com "A-LEE-SAM"

I've been happily using the older Veritas "sharpening system" for a long time, perhaps more than 15 years. The "new and improved" Mk.II seems way too complicated and prone to problems like this. I guess I just like simpler designs.

What did LeeValley do in response to the negative feedback from the owners of the MK.I jig when they complained about the jig? Well, they built a better jig and if I want to invest a 2nd time in a sharpening jig I can have the new and improved version, the version that actually works. They left their MK.I customers in the lurch. Sorry, no MK.II for me.

antoine

Did you contact LV to ask if they had a trade-in policy for owners of the original guide?

problematic.

I've been happily using the older Veritas "sharpening system" for a long time, perhaps more than 15 years. The "new and improved" Mk.II seems way too complicated and prone to problems like this. I guess I just like simpler designs.[/quote:98ffade8e1] Hi Doug,

Actually, more people over the history of the former honing guide had problems with tools twisting. Add to the new one the skew registration jig--another issue people have had setting up other jigs altogether--and the cambered roller lower assembly--yet another issue--and the new jig offers quickly repeatable use.

In the classes I teach regarding hand tool use--and in particular sharpening--most of the class participants find the new guide actually easier than the former or other guides on the market. I often take a small collection of honing guides to these classes, most vintage, some other currently available guides, including the former LV honing guide and the Millers Falls on which I think it was based.

I personally only use a guide to ensure skew angled tools are honed accurately and to correct the inevitable variance from repeated hand honing. But when I do, it is quick and easy.

But the MK.II isn't for everyone. That's why we have variety.

Take care, Mike

The one I have is not "former", although it's old. It's the same as the current one, with the exception that the angle jig with mine only has 4 angles (2 on one side, 2 on the other), as opposed to the 5 on the current one. I have no problem using mine (and it has the secondary-bevel capability, which is what I think you meant by "cambered lower roller"). I've never experienced "twisting" while using it (well, I twisted my ankle once, but that's another story :-)

If I may butt in, I did, and the response was, "Well, you'll have an extra one for your toolbox." This, with a smile, at the ww show when I bought the new one.

I don't have the most gifted pair of hands, so it's hard for me to come down with both feet on this issue. Still, I'm really puzzled why many others don't have the problem of narrow chisels wandering.

I like the improvements made but they are trivial--imho--to making the chisel behave while being sharpened. Why did I go for the second one? Because of my good opinion of Lee Valley, which, in this case I'm truly sorry to say, was misplaced.