I'm playing around with the new bandsaw, and have a question.
I've had all three blades on it so far: a 1/4" x 14pt., a 3/8" x 6pt.,
and a 3/4" x 3pt. (way scary to unfold that one, and way overkill but I
didn't find a narrower one with 3tpi or less).
For each blade I need to fettle with the tension spacer and the
tensioner adjustment in general. Is this a normal thing with bandsaws?
I decided to leave the setscrew out of the spacer altogether, as I have
to adjust it with each blade change, and it tightens down on the threads
of the tension adjust rod... which can't be good if you're doing a lot
of blade changes.
Find a local saw shop and you can get any tooth/size/set that you want..
The shop I use also has a pretty good stock of "ready to pick up" blades and my
preference right now is a 3/8 6 tpi but they have it in 3 and 4 tpi, too..
As to blade tension.. what George said... the thinner the rubber band, the less
you can safely stretch it... or in bandsaw terms, the thicker the band, the ore
force it takes to stretch it..
I'm not sure what a tension spacer is, though?
opps.. I meant to include in my 1st post that being a devout coward, I keep a
pair of work gloves under the band saw, for handling blades..
I can usually give it a twist and open it ok, but not without gloves.. I
recommend the ones that have a bit of cuff/wrist protection..
You can buy almost any blade configuaration you can imagine.
An excellent blade is a 1/2" 3tpi for "most" stuff.
Yes... bandsaws require a great deal of "twitching" to make
them do the job. Every blade change will require another
complete setup of most adjustments.
I wouldn't leave any parts out.
Have you done any reading on bandsaws ???
What are you calling a "tension spacer" ???
Most blades come with instructions on proper installation.
A good bit of tensioning is tighten,observe,repeat process.
Look for the "flutter method" of getting the correct temsion.
Enoch Root wrote:
That's the one I would have chosen for resaw, but a timberwolf in that
size wasn't offered by Grizzly. And I had to have one now...
Subtleties of unfolding a 3/4" x 105" angry kitty aside, the blade works
well on the saw, and paring off the saw marks is a matter of a few
passes with the plane.
I will. I don't want to crush the threads on the adjustment bar, and it
doesn't move without out it for the length of time I usually have the
blade on and under tension (working). It's difficult to move
intentionally, and there's little enough vibration in the BS to assure
it won't be moving in operation.
Yes. A lot. And had a more finicky one for a short time, to play with.
That thing which threads onto the tension rod between the block the
quick release rides on when fully tensioned (at the top), and the
carriage the wheel is fixed to (which in turn rides on ways in the
frame). It doesn't directly contribute to the tension, but pushes down
(when properly set) on the wheel carriage when the tension is released
to bring the wheel down far enough to remove the blade. Think of it as
a tension "preload" that keeps the spring compressed while the tension
is released... but it's serving to reduce the length of travel required
to get zero tension on the blade.
Yes. The instructions don't talk about what you have to deal with when
you buy too much blade for the bandsaw you've chosen. :)
I don't have a problem installing the blades, or adjusting the tension
for the blade. It's just surprising to me that setscrew would be used
and be positioned to crush the threads if the spacer needs to be
adjusted with every blade change. There're also no flats to set a
wrench on it--everything about its design tells me "set and forget" so I
had to ask.
Without a way to measure the tension accurately (forget about that
little indicator on the spring... I think it may have had some marginal
basis in reality before the riser block was fitted but...) I expected to
have to do that. I'm not asking how to tension the blade, though.
Sounds like part of the quick release, and there are different styles
of them. On mine the lever lowers the upper wheel a LOT if I let it
go all the way back, and regardless of what size blade is on there
it's flopping around loose without me doing anything for different
blades. Maybe if you mention the model of the saw you have someone
can chime in with better info.
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