Everytime I've tried to do use a flushtrim bit to trim edgebanding on
plywood, I end up cutting an ugly gash into the piece. I'm using a Bosch
1617, which is considered a medium sized router, and a CMT bearing bit.
I suppose trim routers, because of their weight, are best suited to this
task but there are about a hundred other things I need to spend my money on
these days (most notably, my newborn son!)
Is there anything I can do to avoid "dipping" the router into the work? My
attempts to keep it level invariably fail, and that's when I gouge my wood.
The simplest and most effective approach I know of is to simply gang
together several pieces of plywood or whatever so that the router base has a
large surface to sit on. After that, the best addition is to use an offset
router base so that you have some way of offsetting the router's tendency to
tip as you turn a corner, etc.
Look here for more info: www.patwarner.com . I've bought several of his
router baseplates and they are a great addition to my routers.
In a WW book I read the author uses the table saw instead of router for
trimming edgebanding. He says it is faster and more accurate. The trick is
putting a board on your TS fence that doesn't go all the way down to the
table. Have the bottom of the board somewhat higher than the thickness of
Sorry, I don't recall which book.
I use a Bosch 1617 sometimes although for trimming edge banding I prefer
my laminate trimmer. The bit needs to be clean though. If you pick up
any adhesive on the bearing surface of the bit it may damage the edge.
I keep a can of adhesive remover out and clean the bit after each pass.
B a r r y wrote:
If you are tilting the router base, or the edgebanding face is not square to
the plywood face then you'll groove the ply. The setup I use on the router
table is to bring the fence in to keep the shelf stock square to the table.
To adapt this concept to a portable router, make a thicker subbase and
drill/tap in a starter pin square to the subbase. Concentrate on keeping
the ply face in contact with the pin.
In addition, retract the bit to the minimum required to clean up the
I've read some interesting responses to your post. This should be a
relatively easy fix. Here it goes:
Get an offset base for your router.
( http://www.patwarner.com/offset_subbase.html )
If you don't want to buy one, make one. Get a flat piece of wood from
your scrap bin that is at least as wide as your router's diameter, and
at least twice as long. Drill holes to match your factory baseplate.
Screw it onto your router. Put a handle or knob on the far end. That
should eliminate the propensity to tip.
Set the bit so that only the amount of blade needed for
the trim is exposed to the wood.
On really thin stock(3/4") you should double or triple
the width by adding scrap stock, to at least get a decent
base for the router to set on.
Trimming edge banding requires a fair amount of practice.
Some times a block plane might be a better choice.
Jerry Fangman wrote:
I think Pat has the most important tip here. If you don't expose too much
carbide then if you tip it just stops cutting, and cannot dig in. First
timers tend to shoot for centering the laminate on whatever amount of
carbide the bit happens to have. That's way more exposed cutting edge that
On 19/04/2004, 11:31:58 PM, Jerry Fangman wrote:
Just a shot in the dark here, but have you tried to use a piece of
scrap, equal to the thickness of your work piece, to support your
router on the other side of the bit?
It is difficult to balance the router on the narrow banding and move the
router without tilting the cutter. If you are planing to do this trimming
often, there is a special fence attachment for most routers with an offset
space for the untrimmed edging available that will stabilize the router to
the plywood face surface and keep the bit from gouging. With some 1 x 6s. 2
woodscrews and a little ingenuity you can devise one.
useours, yours won't work
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