After wasting enough board feet to piss me off. I found a few problems with
my router table and corrected them, but I still am having problems. Any
suggestions on how to calibrate the Glue bit to the wood? I just can't
afford to waste a day with the hunt and cut method.
I'm a bit concerned and may be right that the router (Sears 17533 1/4), the
table ( Craftsman Professional Router Table, Laminate #26608) and me aren't
up for this job. For the most part, for all the jobs I've used these, I
haven't had a problem. The tolerance with the glue bit, seems just to be
frustrating me. I found the plastic bumper that runs around the table,
extended above the table. Shaved that! Then everytime I tightened down the
fence, it threw off the face plate, found that the vacuum table hood
extended below the fence, so as I tightened the fence the piece would bow
the plate, cut that away. Could also use some ideas regarding setting up the
Glue joint bit sensitive to:
1) Work piece thickness, (must be uniform & equal thickness)
2) Router fence: must not deflect, must be straight, square to table
would be nice
3) Cutter: Most designed for full thickness cuts, thus the term:
Glue-joint. Fence must be offset for this. Note many (cutters) are
poorly ground and will not work no matter what measures are taken!
4) Work must be flat and free of defects. If it rocks and squirms the
profile will suffer.
5) And operator must have some woodworking experience. This is not a
cutter for those starting out.
1. Standard 1 X 3 Red Oak
2. *Might be an issue, will re-check!
3. Proper cutter.
4. Would is clean and straight!
5. Limited but growing!
One thing I noticed is the locking collar for the Router would sometimes pop
open and just cock the bit. Using tape to secure it!
I've looked at the article, but I can't see why this bit should be overly
difficult to set up for whatever thickness of wood.
It seems the critical factor is aligning the top of the central rebater to
be dead level with the top of the first piece (A). This could be achieved,
at least to a very close margin, with a steel rule resting on top of piece
(A) and then cranking up the bit until the top of the central rebater
touches it. No measurements. Then test it and fine tweak to suit.
So I presume I am missing something here.
I didn't think it was and I don't think it's overly hard to setup. The
biggest problem being was myself, I bought my first router table, not
knowing what I wanted or needed in a table. Secondly assembling it, I should
have caught some of the problems beforehand. Third I just wanted to see this
work, and put no thought into it... Hey can't be that hard put bit in, turn
on router and cut.......
Tomorrow, I'll sit down and look at it from a calibration and alignment
point of view and see if I can come up with a quicker method of drop it in
and go! Be advised you can still go through some board feet with the
tweaking. Eventually I got some good cuts. One problem I may have is a bowed
mounting plate, giving me inconsistent cuts. So I'll examine everything
tomorrow and let everyone know what I did find.
I scribed a center line on the bit, and use that as a visible reference
point to board center. There is a problem with the router plate being
warped.... I'll have to replace this to see how well all the pieces work
Thanks Again, Joe
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