Wayne... you didn't say what your application is, so I don't know if this
would work for you. But I've had good success adhering UHMW to wood and metal
with 3M two sided carpet tape. It's available (at your local big-box store)
in at least two thicknesses and the thicker stuff works better on porous
surfaces, like wood.
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Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
A few people mentioned adhesive backed UHMW tapes. How do they get the
tape adhesive to stick to the UHMW?
BTW, I don't want to buy anything if I can help it. I have a small
piece of UHMW that is about 3/4 x 1/2 x 6 inches long. I wanted to
slice it thin on my bandsaw ( making a 3/4 x 1/8 x 6" piece ), cut it
into three 2" long pieces, and adhere them onto the bottom of a piece
of aluminum runner in a table saw jig.
I have some different spray adhesives including the 3M #77 that someone
mentioned (I think), and some "industrial" contact cement. May try that
too. And maybe a piece of carpet tape or some other double back tape.
Wayne, the adhesives won't work because the UHMW molecule is
completely closeed - it won't even absorb water. The adhesives can't
bond to the molecules, so they cant bond to the plastic.
The self-adhesive solution only works because you have an atmospheric
bond - air pressure is holding the adhesive to the plastic. It's not
likely to last very long.
The company produced self-adhesive UHMW use a special process to bond
the self-adhesive to the plastic. I don't know what it is, but it's
unlikely that individuals can duplicate it.
I still think your best bet is using screws. Just make sure not to
over-tighten them and you should be OK.
Wayne, I work with this stuff all the time (sell it on ebay and
You can't glue it, period. Nothing sticks to it.
The tape back stuff works fairly well - for a while, then it'll peel
I always recommend that you use screws and countersink the holes so
the screw heads are slightly below the level of the surface. Before
installing the piece, run a small xacto blade around the edge of the
countersink and remove the little lip that forms. Then, as far as
your wood knows, the surface will be smooth, because the wood will
glide right over the screw and the plastic edge.
When I have enough thickness, I will drill, at slow speed, a flat
bottom with a forstner bit, deep enough to accommodate a pan head with
I find the countersink of a regular screw raises the plastic around
the screw head.
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