Type of wood?

Double that for South East Texas.

Reply to
Leon
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Depending on grade, in that range here

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Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

, I would expect to get a price break compared to the typical retail price. > > If necessary, I'll remind him that he told me that a neighbor gave him the wood for free! : ) Cheers, Bill

If it's rough cut, it may not be kiln dried. If it's rough cut, at least s ome would likely be warped and twisted, unless stickered really well. If it 's ever gotten wet, it may have water marks. These are aspects of lumber I look for, here, in south Louisiana. Lumber in your area may be differe nt.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

I suspect it is a little warped and twisted. How much of that can I get away with in an 6 foot 4/4 piece? Not too much, huh?

unless stickered really well. If it's ever gotten wet, it may have water marks. These are aspects of lumber I look for, here, in south Louisiana. Lumber in your area may be different.

Reply to
Bill

About time someone introduced the the most important factor in the price, "grade".

Bill, without taking grade into consideration, you can't do anything but average a stack of wood without going though each board individually, so use this as your rationale for offering, on the low side, what you think is a fair price.

IOW, 25% higher waste, even at FAS price, is damned expensive when it comes to hardwoods.

The other thing is to settle on a higher price for your ability to pick and choose.

Reply to
Swingman

Thank you. I've learned enough from everyone's comments to pursue this Much More Intelligently (than just buying a "big stack of cherry")!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I normally buy #1 common. The sizes needed for 90% of what I make can be easily cut out of that; if not, I can usually find a place to bury (hide) it.

Reply to
dadiOH

How big a piece do you want to wind up with?

Bow is NP if you can bend it straight when you afix it to something else

Cup is NP if you need thin wood

Crook is NP if you need shorts or narrow

Twist is a PITA

Reply to
dadiOH

Amazing. Is there a drop off in the demand for wood, in general? I think Cherry is the nicest looking wood around, for furniture anyway. I have noticed that furniture stores are only carrying very dark (might just as well be painted black) "wood", these days. I suppose it's the style. Maybe the same deal with Cherry?

Reply to
krw

I want to make kitchen table and coffee table from it.

Reply to
Bill

I am told I suck all the time but not for reasons of envy.

Glad you are interested in the Mission kits. If you notice on my website I say they will be available in late 2011 (I think). That is still the plan ; ^).

I haven't had any time to concentrate on the kit business. The Pine kits we re a big fail although my research showed that Mission\Craftsman\Arts and C raft\Stickley anything would sell about 10x better than the cheapo pine stu ff. I just didn't have the cash to invest in inventory (QS white oak and ma ybe Cherry) (on speculation) for the (side) business.

I came across the Cherry and negotiated it for about $0.75 bf and it includ ed 500 bf of 6/4 and 8/4 white oak beams all 10 ft and 12" wide min up to 1

5" wide. Actually negotiated for $1.00 bf but our estimate of the size of the stacks was wrong and it was by about 25%. Intent was to put this wood i nto the kit business but just haven't had the spare cash to speculate, buil d the kits, run the advertising, etc.

It is still the dream and may do it once my real job kicks me out or I reti re, etc. Maybe sooner than that but kind of on hold as life proceeds.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Me too. I don't care much at all for either cherry or maple. Walnut I like. Ditto mahogany and hickory (a too often overlooked wood); others too but those are the common ones.

Reply to
dadiOH

Envy? Well, I suppose we both can't have the same stack of wood. ;-)

;-)

I am interested. Very. I've been watching for some time, now. Since late 2011 was a possibility, anyway.

Yeah, I'm not interested in Pine, either. BTDTDLTR (didn't like the results). If I'm going to go through that I want real furniture. Since all of our good furniture us Cherry,...

If you do, please post a notice here. We're looking for exactly what you're teasing us with. ;-)

I gotta find a good source of wood. I have a bunch of Ash but it's not in good shape and eight or so 8' 8/4 Maple 2x10s (complete with tap holes) that I don't know what I'm going to do with (that I've moved four times now). Buying it from Woodcraft for furniture is just stupid expensive. Might just as well buy Stickley.

Reply to
krw

Yeah my ash isn't in that good of shape either.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

I bet the planer didn't take divots out of it, though.

Reply to
krw

Basswood is softer than Maple. Maple is a hardwood and used to make baseball bats. You can make a dent in basswood with a fingernail. It is much harder than balsa wood though. I used a lot of thin basswood (up to a 1/4" thick) building dollhouse furniture. I had to cut it with a Dremel 4" table saw, and turn legs and other round items with a Dremel miniature lathe. Dremel, now owned by BOSCH, doesn't make those tools anymore, but you can find them on eBay.

Reply to
willshak

willshak wrote in news:l5j7cq$ipe$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

I've been working on other projects, but one of these days I'll get to using thin wood on my model railroad again. I'm thinking I'm actually better off using my bandsaw to cut it than a miniature table saw. Since the teeth only pass through with a downward motion, the workpiece would be held to the table rather than rattling in the "breeze".

Have you tried using a bandsaw on the really thin material? I'm thinking about material 1/32-1/8" thick, which is a little thick to get a clean single cut with a utility knife.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

Maple baseball bats? I thought they were Ash or Hickory.

Reply to
krw

That's why they are breaking all over the place, along with the fact that these millionaire baseball players never figured out the grain direction. We learned to not hit on the flat grain in the second grade

- else we'd be out a bat for quite a while. Always keep the Louisville slugger stamp pointed straight up at the point of contact as it was stamped on the flat grain...

Reply to
Doug Winterburn

Yeah but that is a relatively recent development, ash was the norm many years ago.

Reply to
Leon

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