The sides to front misalignment could, in addition to a not
perfectly round collar and/or not perfectly centered bit, be
caused by a parts orientation error. If the reference faces,
(the face either visible or down/up against the jig) are flipped
on the drawer sides, relative to the reference face on the front
and back, slight centering errors can pop up and they'll be
consistent - wrong but consistent.
When you do half blinds on an overlay drawer front things get
a little trickier because the center of the drawer front
is at a different distance from the reference EDGE of the
sides and back.
Do the sides and back line up properly and it's just the sides
to front that are off?
As for the dado cuts - there's a slot cutter bit that I've seen
ads for that let you route the dado for the drawer bottom
after the drawer is assembled - but not glued yet (obviously)
With an overlayed drawer front drawer you'd have to figure
a way to raise the sides and back to get the drawer bottom
edges parallel to the router table top but that can be done.
Anyone use this slot cutter bit for this purpose?
That's very true ... however, my "fitting and tweaking" of the drawer parts
comes into play _before_ cutting the drawer bottom grooves, and before
glue-up. I generally use a low angle block plane for this step, both top and
bottom with a dry fit, and very occasionally have to resort to the
stationary belt sander. Once properly done, a reference edge should be
available for aligning the grooves, whether cut on the router or table saw.
I've got to admit that I've rarely had the subject problem arise (made close
to hundred drawers last year alone) ... that may come from paying particular
attention to the orientation of the router when cutting the dovetails, and
likely the Leigh Jig may also mitigate the problem to some extent.
If you don't make drawers then stop right here and look at the next person's
Presently, I am in the drawer building mode. It seems no matter how careful
I am with cutting the drawer parts, when I assemble the drawers after
cutting the dovetails(using jig) the sides don't match up with the front.
If I use the top side of the drawer parts as reference, when I cut the
dadoes for the bottom, the dadoes on the sides sometimes don't match up with
the front dado. The problem is worsened if you need to do rabbeted, half
blind dadoes. If you like your drawer bottoms snug, and the dadoes don't
match you're in doodo. In the past, my quick fix is just to plane(or chisel)
a little or widen the dado which results in lots of slop in the fit. I
tried something else that seems to work ....I use hot glue to make up the
slight difference in the reference surfaces(some rasping may be required)
and then cut the dado. Maybe this pictures will help.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.