Should I read that as appropriate for 1HP for AC and 3/4HP DC?
Is this the switch correct? The counter guy seemed a little lost (and it wasn't even a HD!); think he was new.
Is there a better option?
Thanx Renata
Yes.
It should do the job; however, it sounds like you have a unit that comes with it's own NEMA 1 enclosure.
You should be able to get an "open" version (no enclosure) that will mount in the existing opening on the T/S.
Probably save you a few $.
Have fun.
It's the holiday week, about the only people working are the rookies.
BTW, they put every rookie on the counter to start, then ask them to take care of the good looking women who walk in asking, "Can you help me?"
If they survive, they're off probation.
Lew
Mark...
I also have a 1948 Unisaw which has been fully restored and upgraded although it still has the original bullet motor (runs like a champ). I've added the Biesmeyer, table extension, and a few months agao, I decided to retire the (working) OEM switch and I installed a Craftsman large paddle safety switch over on the left. I think I paid $50 for it from Sears parts... whatever. What I did was rewire it with a longer power in cable, and after removing the old switch, simply connected the switch-out cable inside the old Unisaw box. I then made an .080" aluminum plate to match the rounded-corner box and covered up the connection. I'm sure you could get by with a less-expensive switch, but after a few months of actually using the paddle switch... I love it. Its a a big improvement over having to hunt for the OEM switch if you've got 5" of Biesmeyer steel extending the profile of the saw.
And no... I'd never consider selling the OEM Delta switch, switchplate, or dust door. All carefully stored away.
Mike
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