I put 2 coats of Minwax poly on a sample board. After 4 days I can
scratch it with my fingernail.
Yesterday I applied two coats of Bonakemi Mega floor finish to a sample
board and I can scratch that with my fingernail also.
Am I not waiting long enough to test the finish? Both of them will sand
and polish ok.
If I want to use poly, should I use Behlen's Rock Hard for a harder
finishing or will every finish still be a bit soft the first week or so?
The finish is going to be for an everyday desk top for my study.
I use pre-cat lacquer for situations such as you describe. It needs
to be sprayed.
It meets all the KCMA standards for abrasion and denting.
If you are used to spraying lacquer this won't be a big jump.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
ever heard about making an HVLP compressor from a vacuum cleaner motor?
there are detailed instructions in a finishing book I just read...
They don't specify how many psi it develops. they give a Grainger part
number for the motor. I'd want something equivalent (or better)to a 3 stage.
Tom Watson wrote:
Not fully cured would be my guess, reactive finishes cure from the outside
inward. In a way, more well cured thin coats can be quicker than fewer thick
coats. In anycase be patient.
Isn't it Behnlens that makes a bar top finish? I haven't tried it but I'm
planning to for an upcoming project.
not sure, David, but they list one for tabletops, so maybe that's it?...
...I just downloaded a pdf of the Behlen catalog. It IS the Rockhard
Tabletop Varnish I believe. $44 per gal!
oops! I got several pdf's yesterday! just a sec...I'll find it...
then click the link "Catalog" in red, under LIBERON/star Wood Finish Supply
Lazarus Long wrote:
I just did the fingernail test on the floor that I refinished a few
months ago. (the Bonakemi Mega water based floor finish) It's pretty
darn hard, although it will scratch if you try hard enough. But it did
pass the fingernail test. Maybe I should just use the stuff and wait at
least a week before using the desk after the finish is applied...
Creamy Goodness wrote:
It takes about 30 days for poly to cure to 90+%. The first few days it will
be soft and after about 7 days it will be nearly as hard as at 30 days. It
is tougher than lacquer which means it is also softer as opposed to the
brittleness of lacquer. It also resists chemicals and water better than
lacquer. If you want a really good topcoat, try a conversion varnish or a
two part poly. They are extremely hard and resistant to most chemicals and
water/moisture with the poly being the better topcoat. The only one better
would be polyester, but that is a two or three part that mixes right before
or at the gun. It is best left to professional sprayers with special
However, if you have an HVLP or other sprayer, a conversion varnish or
catalyzed poly is not out of reach. In fact, a lot of high end furniture,
especially tables are being sprayed with the catalyzed poly. Also, it is
the topcoat used on cars.
BTW, I have sprayed the precat lacquer but not the conversion varnish or the
two part poly; but I am looking for the opportunity to do so.
Check out http://www.pencilpages.com/articles/simmons.htm for hardness
ratings of finishes.
Preston, thanks so much for that link. Perhaps I SHOULD go with my
original plan which is to use the floor finishing products (water based
urethane - Bonakemi Mega Gloss). It seems like the one product that I
can apply before springing for a HVLP. I KNOW I need to get one, but I
can't really see myself spraying lacquer in the winter inside my garage.
I had plannned on doing some lac in the future, but in the backyard in
a partial enclosure, away from sources of ignition.
I didn't see plain ole polyurethane on the list. What is the equivalent?
Preston Andreas wrote:
Mike, if I had to brush it on, does it flow out pretty well or is it a
PITA to apply with a brush? The Bonakemi is water based and I find that
you've got almost no time to correct lap marks--you gotta work FAST!
Mike S. wrote:
I have had great success with Hydrocote WB Polyurethane.
My computer desk is 3 years old, and looks like I just brought it up
out of the shop, even under the keyboard. I usually spray, but have
brushed it in a pinch with no problems.
I am currently using Hydrocote Resisthane on some kitchen cabinets,
and so far it looks good, and seems durable (passes the fingernail
test). It doesn't brush as well as the poly, but sprays great with a
conventional high pressure gun. One day I'll break down and get a
I get the finishes from Highland Hardware.
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