I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
read this group quite a bit).
1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
2-The fence is aligned with the blade
3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I set
the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
be arbor/blade runnout ?
are you pushing it thru at a consistent rate? I get some burning if I pause
for a second to change my hold on the board and let the board sit against
the blade for a second. This happens with long boards where I have to move
the spot I hold the board to feed the whole thing thru. Normally just on oak
though, don't use much pine.
"Le Steak" <beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote in message
I guess that's the official name. Yes. Crappy pine would better be described
as syrrupy. When I talked to Torben Helshoj (president of Laguna tools) at
the Houston show, he demoed the usual hardwoods for cutting, but he also had
some pine. He said pine was actually a more difficult cut because of the
It's the same as with a router: the feed rate is important. The
wood and blade need to part company as rapidly as quality and
safety permit. If you feed too slowly, the wood will be heated to
the point of burning - and it is possible to warp a saw blade by
feeding stock too slowly - DAMHIKT.
BTW, I'm wondering if using a WWII for ripping is part of the problem
because I too use a 40 tooth Forrest. Maybe a 30 tooth would reduce the
burning? Just asking everyone; I don't know.
Le Steak wrote:
Some pine has a nasty habit of springing after its cut. A properly aligned
splitter can do wonders to tame this problem. Are you using a splitter? Do
you get burning on hardwood. How long is the piece of pine that you are
ripping? Are you using anything other than your hand and a push stick to
guide the wood? Do you have an outfeed table?
I've burned plenty of wood in my short experience. The causes included poor
operator technique, lack of outfeed support, improperly aligned splitter,
and lack of auxilary support such as a featherboard. I don't seem to get
burning at all these days. I attribute this to great improvements in
operator technique and using Grip-tites most of the time.
It's not normal but there are a number of reasons why it will happen.
You missed something in set up. You are using a splitter and have not set
that correctly, you are not feeding the stock properly, your blade has pitch
build up, blade put in backwards (don't laugh, it happens). . .
I had the same problem, but not just with pine. I also read the the
group a lot. I replaced the WW2 with a freud glue line rip blade and
all of my burning issues went away. Much nicer cut too. I just use the
Forrest blade for plywood now. Still burns, but gives a nice cut on
How hard do you have to "push" the stock? If not like a hot knife through
butter, I'd suspect the blade. I'll add that the best blade I've ever used
(and probably abused) is the Oldham that costs you less than $20 at the HD.
If I remember correctly a while back someone else complained about the same
problem. I think it was discovered that the blade alignment changed as the
blade was raised and lowered. You might want to check the "Google" archives to
try and locate the thread.
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
I also believe that the problem is with alignment. The problem is that
the Arbor Bracket is not machined correctly. The spindle bearings and
the Arbor Bracket Shaft bore are not parallel. You can check this by
indicating the blade in the full up and full down positions. If they
are not the same, there is nothing you can do about this until you
re-machine the arbor bracket using an oversize shaft. The Front
Trunion also has to be re-machined to accept the oversize shaft. What
I did was to adjust the trunions so that the blade is aligned with the
miter slot at 1" depth of cut. As long as I cut 3/4" stock there is no
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