I must have 15 table saw blades of various sizes and designs. Is it
practical for me to learn how to sharpen them or should I just keep buying
new ones???? Some are carbide tipped and some are not. What tools would be
required. How do you test for sharpness? I can feel the cutting difference
when I put a new blade in but when comparing two older blades, how can I
tell which is sharper.
This is something best done on a very expensive, computer controlled
machine, by someone who knows what to look for. If you can find a local
one, you're doubly lucky.
Considering that each blade will cost you an average of less than $20 each,
carry-in, it's a really good deal. And the counter person will look at
your blades, and tell you what you should take back unsharpened.
At least mine does.
There was a thread a couple of years ago on local recommended sharpening
services, wherein a lot of wReckers recommended good ones.
Consider that the tip speed of your 10" table saw blade is close to 100
mph, running at about 4000 rpm.
7" framing blades are generally disposable.
Forget about not carbide blades and send the rest to Forest Blade for
sharpenning if they are in good condition, this is what I would do,
they sharp them so good that it will be betther than new.
The non carbide are usually throw aways. The carbide can be sharpened.
Check the prices at www.ridgecarbidetool.com for information. If t hey are
good blades, you will save a bundle having them resharpened.
This is not a DIY job as they use special equipment and the angles are very
Actually, it can be a DIY job with carbide blades, and the results are as
good as the person doing the sharpening, as a rule. I forget the material,
but you put the blade in backwards and set a jig over it to slide a
sharpening tool up against it as it runs. Works well except for specialty
blades of course, 'cause it's going to give you flat-topped teeth, but since
that's what most cutoff/rip/plywood blades are ... . I've had some pretty
respectable results with it over the years.
Mon, Feb 14, 2005, 9:48pm (EST-3) email@example.com (mp) says:
Are you saying that you sharpen the blade as it's spinning with the
That's the way I read it too. But, that would only square the ends
of the carbide tips, it wouldn't sharpen the rest of the carbide tip. I
don't see it substituting for a "real" sharpening. I also don't see me
doing anything like that with a turning saw blade. I'd be willing to do
HSS myself - filing by hand, with the blade out of the saw, and in a
vise, no prob - but, any carbide tipped blades, I'd give over to a saw
sharpener to sharpen.
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold
I hope you continue to get good results. If my interpretation is correct,
you run the blade on the saw backwards and then bring a sharpening jig in to
touch against it. Sounds rather scary to me. I'll pay the $15, but you can
do what you think is best.
I think what the op is talking about is commonly
called jointing a saw. All that does is make sure
the saw teeth are at the same level so the bottom
of a saw cut will be flat. Not real important
unless you are using it to make dadoes. It might
make the saw a bit sharper but I don't think you
can sharpen the saw that way.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 00:31:44 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
Check out Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking under
Circular-Saw Blades, page 21. The purpose of
the stone use while the saw is running is to
make a true circle of the blade points.
He shows a steel blade sharpening process but
recommends sending a carbide blade to a professional.
Yep, that's called truing the blade or jointing
the teeth. I don't see how that sharpens the
teeth other than taking small nicks out. But then
I don't have the book. I would just let my
sharpener guy handle all the angle cuts on the teeth.
How do you test for sharpness? I can feel the cutting difference
To test for sharpness, try carving your thumbnail with the edge of the
blade's teeth. If you're unable to carve your thumbnail, have the
blade sharpened. Try this with a new, sharp blade and
compare. You'll note the difference.
I recommend having a professional sharpen your blades - at least th
carbide ones for sure. There is probably a shop in your town tha
sharpens saw blades (I used to live in a town of 3500 and we even ha
Regarding high speed steel saw blades, it can be worth it to have the
sharpened - especially for dado sets. I have a dado set that
inherited from my Granddad that is close to 60 years old - my loca
saw shop keeps it sharp for me and it works great.
These places can also sharpen carbide router bits - I think that m
local place charges $5 or $7 for a bit with two cutting edges.
On a somewhat unrelated note, when changing saw blades on your tabl
saw don't use a block of wood to wedge the blade in place when removin
the nut - you can warp your saw blade...instead, to loosen the nut hi
the wrench with a block of wood or wooden mallet while holding th
sawblade with your hand and a rag. It takes a little practice, bu
it's worth it to avoid damaging an expensive blade.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.