"inexpensive" is in the eyes of the beholder. What does "inexpensive"
mean to you?
Table saw blade sharpening is priced per tooth; but you're buying the
skills and attention to detail of the sharpening guy. I take mine to a
local woodturning friend who has just started his own sharpening
service. He went to school to learn the skills and has invested a lot of
time and money in his new tooling. I don't recall exactly, but I think I
paid about $12 - $15 per 50 tooth blade and the cut quality is very good
Additionally, I've not found much variation in pricing from one place to
the next over the last 5 years or so. I used to take my blades to
industrial sharpening shops that cater to the milling shops and the
Oregon lumber industry. They charge about the same as everyone else.
Speaking of sharpening, I just got a WWII and a Freud 50T red combo
back from a resharpening trip to Forrest.
The Freud hit a buried drywall screw a while back and had visible
tooth damage, so on a lark, I tossed it into the box to see what
Forrest could do with it. I told them to just try their best, but not
to replace teeth, as I could always use the blade for MDF, etc... if
it wasn't all that hot when I got it back.
Forrest returned both blades with an almost apologetic note stating
that the Freud was very dull, and they did their best, running it
through the process twice, and test cutting it.
I *swear* the Freud cuts better than it did as new. I can't wait to
mount up the "properly sharpened" WWII again! <G>
Total cost was $60 for both blades, including test cuts on both and
return shipping. A fair deal!
I have has the same results. While it is ultimately a little more expensive
to use Forrest, they can truly return a blade to factory specs which many
tool sharpening services only wish that they could. Most only retip and
resharpen blades and you can forget about having a blade flattened and trued
by most. For me it is worth the extra 5 or $10 to have the blade cut like
new or better again.
Having done a fair amount of tool grinding, I can say with complete
certainlty that setup is key with either manual or conventional machine. Saw
blades are among the simplest form of cutter to grind. Given equal skill and
attention to detail of the operator, the results from either machine,
conventional or CNC, will be equal.
Niether machine will flatten or tension a blade. That is a seperate process.
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