I am looking at a new table saw and I see that most of them will run
110/220v. They also say that they are pre wired to one of these voltages.
How hard is it to change the wiring to make it go from 220v to 110v?
There is usually a plate with a couple of screws -- lift the plate and
undo a couple more screws so you can shift the right wires... A lot of
motors I have seen have a wiring diagram attached to the motor, or the
inside of the plate.
Undo a couple of screws - swap some wires...
Changing motor direction on a 110V motor is usually the same idea. Very
simple - till you get distracted and put the wire under the wrong screw.
Changing the motor over is pretty easy, but the magnetic starter/relay
(if you use one) would have to be changed too. For instance with 220V,
there are 2 lines, both of which are switched by the starter relay, and
broken by the emergency stop button. With 110V, there is only one line
and a neutral. Also, my starter has overcurrent protection of some sort
IIRC. Going to 110V from 220V will double the current.
If you can possibly get 220V, I would go that way as your saw will stall
less when the voltage is low, and trip the breaker less often. (Voltage
often drops in the summer when everyone's home air conditioners are
running at the same time)
Usually the plug end melts -- so I have been told -- not that I have
_ever_ done it myself understand... Just what I hear. Only idiots make
DAMHIKT - Is the acronym I saw the other day. LOL
Joe Gorman wrote:
He's talking about a dual-voltage motor...geez!
To OP, it's not difficult at all (assuming, of course, it's not a
Chinese motor like one I had w/ a totally indecipherable chart). There
will be a wiring diagram w/ it that shows the connections for either
Normally, they come from the factory wired for 110v and you change the
wiring to make it 220v. Its not a difficult change at all. The wiring
changes are made inside the junction box mounted on the side of the
motor. You also have to change the plug on the end of the cable.
I changed several of my tools. It took about an hour for each change (I
You need a scanning tunneling electron microscope, a beaker, a tub of
vegetable oil, and three nekkit wimminz to complete the job. You apply the
vegetable oil to the nekkit wimminz, then you have them fiddle with how the
wires are hooked up inside the motor, according to the little chart. Pour
the beaker full of beer to drink while you watch them work, and then use
the microscope to inspect your Scary Sharp(tm) edges while you wait for
them to finish. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
220V to 110V? Why? If it's wired for 240V to begin with that suggests
(not guarantees) a 3 HP motor, which will draw in excess of 20A at
120V. Do you have a 120V circuit with 10 gauge wire and a 30A
breaker? If you don't, leave the motor on 240V and wire a 240V line
from the load center to near the saw.
Anyway, if you must, it's a two part process.
Part 1: as many have already pointed out, rewiring the motor is quite
simple--perhaps a five minute process. The diagram should be inside
the junction box on the motor. If it isn't you may want to rethink
this. You can probably figure it out using an ohmmeter, but if you
knew how to do that you wouldn't be asking this question in the first
Part 1A: in preparation for using the saw after completing Part 2
below, mount a plug suitable for the desired voltage on the cord that
goes to your motor. DO NOT leave the original plug on it.
Part 2: you need to run an appropriate voltage line with an
appropriate current capacity (amps) from your load center (breaker
box) to somewhere near your saw and provide an appropriate outlet
Plugs and receptacles are configured differently for 120V and 240V.
Don't mix them up.
They are also configured differently for various amperages but they
are less fussy. In fact, there are dual configuration receptacles
intended for 20A circuits available in both 120V and 240V
configurations. They are arranged so that one can plug a 15A device
into a the 20A receptacle. However, one can't plug a 20A device into a
15A only receptacle.
It is uncommon to find a true 20A plug on a 240V device (some window
or wall unit air conditioners, perhaps). It is even more uncommon to
find a true 20A plug on a 120V device--I can't remember ever seeing
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
========Depends .... If you have trouble getting down on your hands and knees
to reach the motor then IT could be a problem... or if you only had
the wrong kind of screwdriver you could have problems...
Normally just pull a cover and move one wire... ..c
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