Well, one of my Unisaw's that was in storage in Biloxi, MS, was
completely submerged in brackish water as a result of Kristina.
Ordinarily, I would consider it a small loss considering what others
have gone and are going through and junk it, however, it was in
storage because it is of great sentimental value to me so I am going
to try to recover it.
I'm at a loss as to what to do to the induction motor and starter. It
is a three hp tefc Marathon motor and a GPE starter. Compounding the
problem is I probably won't get down for a number of weeks, although I
might be able to get one of my nephews to do something to it if I knew
what to do. Also, I don't have a clue as to when power might be
available to try to run it.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Normally I'd suggest getting it out of the water, washed down
with fresh water thoroughly, disassembled, and dried. Your
nephew might not be able to accomplish all that.
An alternative is to leave it submerged. If it were fresh
water, I'd say that would be the best bet for now. It's less
likely to oxidize because there is little oxygen that can
reach it. While that would also be true in brackish water,
the electrolytes could react with the metals in the unisaw.
Frank Boettcher wrote:
On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 17:59:47 -0500, Frank Boettcher
Either submerge again in a suitable container, or buy new one through
insurance and get sentimental about that. I know, I know it's not the
same. But that's life. I lost a 1.5" chisel that belonged to my
father. Loaned it and didn't get it back. Went to ask for it, and
got it back in pieces! You learn to put it behind you.
yahoo, groups, deltawoodworking, photos, last unisaw.
Last Unisaw made on the Tupelo, MS line.
Last all American Unisaw made with no foreign components. Last
Dust chute signed by the assembly crew.
means a lot to me.
Others will probably have better advice - i would get somone to drench
everything in WD-40 as a temp measure untill you can break it down and
properly dry and clean it out. No thoughts on the motor or switch but WD-40
couldn't really make things worse, could it?
Years ago I used to work on the Radars and nav gear onboard
the Alaskan fishing fleet. We periodically would have to "rehab"
a Radar that went down as a ship sank. I do not guarantee it
will work for you, but it just might because a TS is way less
complex than a Radar. Bear in mind that the majority of the oxidation
happens *when you pull it out of the water* - you do NOT want to
let it dry out on its own. Here's what we did:
1) Pull the item out of the water and *IMMEDIATELY* give it a complete
rinse in clean, fresh water.
2) Disassmble it and keep rinsing. The more you can take it apart, the
better it will be. Once the motor is off, hose it off throughly,
inside and out. If you can get the rotor out of the motor, better still.
Be sure to open up switch housings, electrical boxes on the machine,
and so forth. They have to be cleaned and dried thoroughly.
1) and 2) should take several *hours* of work
3) Take each dissembled piece that is throughly cleaned and wipe it dry
with clean, lintfree rags. Now soak/spray it thoroughly in WD-40.
WD-40 displaces moisure and leaves a protective reside behind.
4) Let everything stand for a day or two in a dry place. Then wipe
everything off completely. You may have to repeat 1-3 for some/all pieces.
At this point, you can try sticking it back together and trying it.
Don't be surprised if you have to have the motor rebuilt (shouldn't cost
all that much) and/or have to replace starting capacitors, switches or
other electrical components.
WARNING: WHEN YOU FIRE THE THING UP, MAKE SURE IT IS COMPLETELY DRY AND
ON A COMPELTELY DRY SURFACE. WEAR APPROPRIATE RUBBER SOLED SHOES,
PROTECTIVE GLOVES, AND EYE PROTECTION (IN CASE IT SPARKS -
IT PROBABLY WILL - DON'T DO THIS NEAR FLAMMABLE MATERIALS).
PRACTICE GOOD ELECTRICAL SAFETY.
IF YOU DON"T KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS, DON'T DO ANY OF THIS. YOU
HAVE AN EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY TO ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF.
Tim Daneliuk firstname.lastname@example.org
A few years ago our 7 yo left his toy, but still darn expensive, laptop out
in the rain.
I figure it would be fine as soon as it dried out, so I opened it up to air.
A few minutes later my wife decided to see if it still worked. (fortunately
I had removed the batteries...)
I would salvage the top & make a coffee table out of it . . . . . I work as
a CAT adjuster & I know that it is hard to get anything accomplished in the
aftermath of a hurricane that does not apply to life or home . . . You can
not get any help nor supplies . . . I'm not being smart ass about the coffee
table, it would be a real conversation piece with a dulled plate projecting
a few inches with a nice hard wood cabinet below . . .
This may sound a little strange, but try to keep it submerged until you
can actually do something.
(Think "sinker" logs).
There are others on this list far better qualified to discuss metal
restoration than I, so will confine my remarks to the electrical side.
As far as the electrical items are concerned, do a complete rebuild on
both the motor and the motor starter as well as any cabling involved.
A motor rewind shop can clean up the stator and then rewind it along
with the stator.
Hopefully, they will be able to save the shaft, new bearings are a must.
Trust me, you will pay less to buy two (2) new 3 HP motors than this
rebuild will cost so don't be shocked at the repair price.
Replace the motor starter componets.
Hopefully, renewal parts will still be available. Again, it will be
At work when we have a motor get submerged, we "megger" it. I guess
that means we run high current through the motor and see if there is a
short. Not sure if this is for 3 phase only. If it megers ok, then we
go ahead and use it. If not, we replace it.
I assume you have an attachment to the saw itself and not the motor.
motors are a wear part.
Frank Boettcher wrote:
Rinse motor thoroughly as stated.
Put in oven (I know, no power.) for a day or so at 150 F.
It's better to force dry to get moisture out of all nooks and crannies.
Failing the oven, rinse and put the stator in the sun during the day and
cover it at night.
There's no need to try running until it's really dry.
There's no need to change bearings unless it will run.
Go here for a crowd that does restorations as a rule of thumb.
A flooding is bad but the saw can be saved with work and $$$.
The motor needs attention as soon as possible, for a chance of a
save. I would have friends remove that at a minimum and ship
it out by what ever means to a motor shop.
If the saw can receive no immediate attention, hose it down in
a light oil to fight the rust till proper attention can be
paid to it. I mean a real hosing, inside and outside. Oil can
be removed later during proper restoration.
I can only assume that the local folks will have access to any
sort of oil but even kerosene would be of help till somthing
else can be found. Diesel fuel will work also.
Given the conditions in Biloxi, the saw is way down on the list
of stuff that needs attention.
Frank Boettcher wrote:
Electronic products are often washed by a manufacturer before shipping.
Your key concerns here are:
1) Corrosion -- wash with clean, fresh water as soon as possible and allow
2) Contamination (producing high impedance shorts) -- wash with distilled
water before you power up the unit and allow to DRY THOROUGHLY.
3) Power sources being shorted -- sounds like it wasn't used in a long time
so any capacitors would have discharged and the saw wouldn't have any
on-board power sources so you should be fine here
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