What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.
Huh. Your storage location must be damp, and/or subject to big temp swings.
Previous owner left several partial cans, several years old, in furnace room
here, and they were still usable for touchups. I did make it a point to stir
the hell out of them, however. We talking latex or oil? IIRC, latex stores
longer without problems. I don't think a rubber mallet is tight enough- I
use whatever hammer or heavy metal object is handy, and a piece of 1x4 to
avoid dinging the metal. Maybe you are cleaning the lid TOO well, and it
isn't making a seal any more.
I didn't even notice this. I think a rubber mallet can bend the lid,
including the rim.
I just use my arm, pushing down on the heel or my hand until it moves
into the can a bit, then going to the other side, maybe 180 degrees or
maybe 3 times at 120 degrees. I move it some that way. Then I get on
my knees and put the weight of my body above my knees into it, utnil I
feel it move far enough I know it is at the bottom. At 2 or 3 places.
I have the opposite of a bottle opener, that I or someone got at a
paint shop, that one hooks onot the riim and lifts to make the rim go
down into the can, but I've never used it. I like using the heel of
my hand because it's much wider, 4 inches instead of a half inch.
At the recommendation of my paint store, I use a small dead blow
hammer. Rubber mallets bounce.
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
I also scratch a line into the lid to match where the seam is on the
can, so if there are imperfections or spills in the groove, I can
match them up. I think this is more important the second time a can
is opened then the first, but I do it the first time anyhow.
Others will have more direct answers to your question.
I guess I have a dry house. I've had paint dry out after a long time,
but I don't think I've ever had rust.
I always store my paint upside down and NEVER have a problem with
rust, gunk, "skinning" or any other problem. I use a marker to label
the side of the can (upside down) so I know which paint is for which
room without having to turn it over first to read the label. And
when I'm ready to use, I shake the can hard for a good 15 seconds
BEFORE opening it to get it mixed up. I have paint that I have re-
used for touch up years after purchase!
Too much moisture where the paint is stored. Perhaps a plastic bag
around the can would help. I have several different products - primer,
varnish, lacquer - that I use repeatedly and they are fresh after at
least 3 years. I reseal the lid with a mallet - actually a wooden meat
tenderizer that I don't use for food - and just tap around the rim
evenly. Also, when it is opened, don't pry only one side but go around
the rim at several spots. If your storage area is damp, it might help
to wipe the rim with a light coat of oil when it is first opened.
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:29:55 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've always used a combination of mm's advice (for closing the tins) and
JGS's advice about storing the tins downside up. I've kept tins of gloss
paint for several years this way and never had skin or rust.
Registered Linux User 413057.
Both Mandriva 2007.1 and Ubuntu 7.04
-- Right! And as you painted the room, you kept the paint cans upside
-- preventing you from reading the labels. Makes absolute sense.
Actually what really happened was that when I opened the upside down
can, all the paint spilled out. When I scooped it up and put it in
another container, there was no longer a lable for me to read. I tried
putting it back into the original upside down can, but it just kept
In addition to the other hints, here's one from my days in the photo
Half-filled bottles of chemicals reacted with the air trapped in the bottle
and decomposed, so the problem became one of removing the air. There are
probably a zillion ways to do that (use smaller bottles, replace the air
with Nitrogen, etc.). Here's what we did:
Wait for it now...
Yep, from a big sack, we dropped in enough marbles to raise the liquid's
level to the neck of the bottle, minimizing the trapped air.
I Googled "marbles+bulk"
Here's one seller. 1 1/16" marbles, 30 marbles per pound, 30 pounds for
$44, including shipping (that's 900 one-inch-plus marbles!).
The marbles even come in colors so you can match your paint!
Looking at the company's home page, they've got interesting stuff:
Leather gloves, $0.99
4" saw blade for granite, $2.00
Digital multimeter, $8.38
Locking door knob sets (for your rent house), ~$3.50
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